I've started building up my new cooper S hubs tonight.
In the manual and exploded diagrams there is mention of a thin spacer ring between the inner wheel bearing and the inner oil seal.

In the wheel bearing kit I bought there are two wheel bearings (cup and bearings in two sets) , two oil seals, 1 metal spacer ring which is smaller in inner diameter than the bearing, and a white translucent plastic ring...Surely that is not the spacer ring they refer to is it?

I would have thought that the plastic ring would melt if used in the hub. Anyone out there experienced this?
KB

The white ring is a water & slush thrower. Sits nearest engine. Useful in UK. PITA here...

The bit you are missing is a spacer ring, looks like a piston ring. Might have to get from Padstow. If you can't get I can probably make some.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc,

'll try the usual suspects tomorrow.
Any chance of making those shock absorber spacers instead?
I cleaned up some brackets and shocks I got from pick'n'payless on the weekend, so the shocks should be ready to go on this weekend with the brakes.
KB

No problem I'll make some on sat.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev how'd you go finding these....

I need 2 aswell cause mine are busted

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

getting them couried from Padstow and haven't arrived yet, BUT, they say they are just some sort of engine ring that they use nowadays as the real spacers are NLA.

I have to grind 1/8" off one side (of the gap) to increase the gap in order to be the right diameter and use two per side. The Doc said as much in his post as well.

You may as well experiment and make your own if that's the case. In mine, I would like them by the weekend to fit, so time is short in my case hence placing the order.
Cheers
KB

Thanks Mate...one on mine is good I just need another. The ring was bent when I had my mate press the bearing out.

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

Sorry to re-hash such an old thread, I have just picked up the same tapered wheel bearing kit as mentioned. I am using Metro uprights. Do I also need this metal ring?
I noticed that one of the black dust seals has a bit more of a lip on the edge than the other one. Could this possibly nullify (sp) the spacer ring?

Oh and lastly do the tapered shells go in first facing outwards then the inner part just sits inside or does the bearing go into the upright facing inwards? if you get my drift?

Thanks guys

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I have done a bit more of a search and I think I have it sorted.

Press in both inner races first

grab my CV pop a grease seal on it

Grease up an inner bearing race slide it on the CV

slide CV into hub

slide spacer in

slide outer inner race on followed by seal

assemble and tighten?

Lastly, What stops the inner grease seal from getting squashed when its all tightened?

Thankyou

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go to bed.....

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re. go to bed

I work nights so I kinda lurk around ausmini on the weekends when I cant sleep

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Yes you will bugger the seal doing it that way.

The way I do it:
1. press bearing cups into hub.
2. Fit inner (engine side) bearing cone after grease packing it.
3. Fit the piston ring type spacer against bearing.
4. Press the seal against the spacer.
5. Fit the white water slinger if included.
6. turn hub over and fit inner spacer.
7. Grease outer bearing cone and fit. LEAVE OUTER SEAL off.
8. Fit C/V to the assembly, fit drive flange and taper washer, torque nut up to 150lb/t.
9. Spin the C/V in the hub. Check there is no slack in the assembly when rocked about.
10 If it has any endfloat I measure it, remove drive flange, take the inner spacer out and machine off (endfload +.001").
11. Fit the outer seal and assemble.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

does the outer seal stay off?
Or is it just until I tourqe it up and make sure its ok?
aaand where could I get one of these piston ring type spacer? if no one knows where can you make me some doc?

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I leave that seal out only until I check no endfloat. If it does have endfloat the seal has to come out again, so this way I avoid damaging it.
The split spacers were used on both drum brakes and disc, but the disc ones are wider. All it does is ensure the seal misses the CV shoulder and the bearing, and is in straight.
If I don't have any spacer I tap the inner seal in carefully, and leave a gap to the bearing. You can use a steel rule inside the seal, measure off the bearing to ensure seal is in straight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.