hey guys

a friend of mine has rebuilt his mini engine. it took a bit to get going at first bit then fired and ran, but with the lack of oil pressure. Oil pump was airlocked. So i primed it through the pipe going to the filter head.
We then had oil pressure, but wouldnt fire.
Left the engine to sit for about a week, then this:
http://home.iprimus.com.au/kriegns/MVI_6152vvzvd.avi
its a 1.5mb file

A bit of background info on the video, the starter motor is brand new, and benchtests fine, its running directly off a starter pack which chases about 500 amps through it.

we pulled the engine out, found the middle main bearing and thrust washers worn.
replaced those, put engine back together, and still the same thing

I am a mechanic by trade and have pretty much tried everything i thought of to get this thing going, but it defies all mechanics... runs with no oil, doesnt even fire with oil pressure...

any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

Daniel

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I think maybe you have over heated your starter motor and this has shorted the turns within the windings. They aren't meant to be used for very long periods as they have to dissapate too much power (How many 100 amp motors do you know of the same diameter as a bottle of coke?)

If it was a brush issue it wouldn't buzz like that and draw so much current. Also makes sense with the desription you guys have given of the recent goings on.

Prove by trying to turn the engine over by hand, if it does this easily, replace the starter motor. Rewinding might cost you 2-300 dollars or more, one from a wreckers might cost 20-30 dollars. Make your choice.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

hey mate, thanks for the reply, yes the engine is a little hard to turn over, this same problem occurs with the starter motor off my own engine which i know is fine.

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Hard to turn over is a worry...
It's possible that the centre main cap was fitted the wrong way round. The cap and block bores then are out of line and will jam the crank up.
I've seen it happen with conrods too (not my motors).
The rule of thumb is- the bearing shell notches are always put next to the same bolt or stud.

Only exception to this I know of is a Cooper S rear main cap, the factory did not do that- but this cap only fits one way so no matter.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

it wouldnt have gone into a hydrolic lock would it?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Have you tried running the starter on the bench?

edit - Just reread your post - yes you have

There aren't any plugs in the block in that vid, so I doubt its Hyd. Lock ?

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No more Minis!......For now.

lol i havent watch the video yet, took a stab in the dark with juz the info in the post lol

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

does the starter engage the flywheel cleanly or has meshed incorrectly -

I had this trouble and it was the engagemnet action of the starter not disengaging. I pulled the starter out - turned the engine by and reinstalled the starter (after checking the action of the starter gear) and away it went.

by the sounds of things the starter motor isnt even engaging otherwise ud hear a click sound

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

it sort of turns, if you look closely at the fan or alternator on the video, the engine does turn a little, just with a lot of effort.

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Anything written above this line is hereby classified as complete and utter crap

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if the engine sort of turns u may have broken a tooth on the flywheel so the starter motor cant engage properly to turn the motor, and check the connecting spindle to make sure u havent broken a tooth on that either (rare occasion though) but the flywheel is a possbility if the motor turns slightly but stops, every time that happens can u here a click click

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Good engine to body earth strap? Starter motor cables shorting? I had mine shorting on my oil cooler (really silly thing to have!!!) and the starter would only turn over very slightly, ended up melting the insulation on the cable, it's all done properly now.

Just some simple electric things to look at, if you haven't already.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

thanks, but i have pretty much covered all the electrics bit, considering i had the starter pack directly on the starter motor, im now thinking that the crank mite have a slight bend in it, because it was only the centre bearing that was chewed out. not sure how it would have bent it though

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Anything written above this line is hereby classified as complete and utter crap

FOR SALE, parachute, used once, never opened, small stain

Directly on the starter?

With a battery woth some power?

If you just powered the starter the igntion wouldn't come on, would it?

Being a mechanic I'm sure you've done it all right but something crucial is a mis.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T