Is spending the money on working a 998 worth the cost/effort, when you can get a 1275 (with 1275 performance) for however much that costs ?

As they say, there's no substitute for cubic inches.

_________________

A worked 1100 can go hard! Minimad and Betty... their Moke with Josh's old 1100 will keep up or beat plenty of big bores.. I guess the advantage of working a small bore is their more common, and theres no legal requirement for disc brakes.

Other than those reasons I wouldn't bother.. I'd just go big bore..

I have have a worked over 998 in my LS .. Bored out to 1030, cam, balanced, 1.75 SU, extractors, 2" straight through exhaust, Pulsar dissie, head work (getting another one done up) plus other things done to it.

Once the cam kicks at around 2500rpm and the motor starts to rev and with the sound of the exhaust note it just makes it a pleasure to drive.. I can get 85kph @ 6200 in second and 115kph @ 6500 in third and it sits on 110+ in top without any problems..

My Moke has a 1310 in it but wont rev past 5200 in the first three gears but yes, once in top it just keeps on pulling strong from 80kpm to 110+.

I just find the LS with the engine work that has been done a fun car to drive...

smokies 998 sounds like nice engine, but the good thing about the 1275's (or the A+ atleast, i havnt driven a Aseries 1275 to know the diff) is the tourqe, my 1275 will pull up a real steep hill in 3rd from a slow rolling 5kph easy.
you can shift at just over idle speed and still pick up quick.
so its either low down grunt or high reving bliss. both are good

_________________
real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

1100 has almost as much torque as a 1275 and is generally cheaper to build.

If you only want a nippy road car, a worked 1100 will do the job well and provide similar or better performance than a stock 1275. If you want to race or have plenty of money go the worked 1275 and you have more scope for upgrades later.

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I've never owned a 1275 but driven plenty.
When GR finished my "big block" (as Spaceboy calls them), I'll be jumping straight into the 'hot' end of 1275s.

I have owned an 1132.
It ran out of revs at 5500.
I think it had a bit of head work done to it, the compression was definitely up and the cam was up on standard.

It did go like the clappers, compared to most 998s.
998s just do not have the torque but by jesus they rev!
I had my completely standard 998 (40DCOE & extractors) revving to 7500 easily. Poor thing.

I'm the opposite haven't driven A+ 1275 but my A series pulls in top gear from 30km/h . 2nd is "good" to about 65km/h, third to 85ish @ 5200 top sits lovely on 100 @ around 3800. I would personally go a big bore but thats preference I guess. I love being able to drive relativity quickly or economically. With low down grunt. Mine was built to be strong and reliable.

Horses for courses - really doesnt matter - you can only go 100kph anyway. For the fact of fuel economy the small bores are better. Ease of getting parts is easier(whens the last time there was a shortage of 998/1100 heads...). The 998cc rev like a bastard and are pretty good on insurance too for the more novice driver.

That said a 1275 would be good...lol

People say why bother - fact is most people dont care - as long as they drive one...

Hooroo

_________________
Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

yeah i reckon a smallblock would work out cheaper to build, just because the parts are cheaper and readily available second hand,
obviously some stuff is the same, such as machining costs.

as was shown at the dyno day, the highly strung barely roadable 998 was pulling the same power as the tired manky rooted 1275's..

you gotta ask yourself what you want the motor for..

There is no replacement for displacement - except money

these threads are always very interesting.

My opinion:

If you have a 1275 available to you, then go for gold on that.

BUT if you dont have a 1275 lying around, then its an additional expense to you to find one to rebuild. this is where the 998/1100 come into play.

I am building a kinda hot 998 and im doing it as much as for fun, as i am to do something different and just because i want to, I like things different, even if it menas for the $$ i am not getting as much bang for my buck. but to hell with it, they are nice and strong and with the amount of revs they'll take it will be a fun little unit

Like Chris says, depends what you've got. Cheaper to rebuild your motor than go buy another then rebuild that.
A well worked 998 or 1098 is very satisfying, GR can get well over 90HP out of them. IMO even when worked over, they are a much smoother engine than any 1275.
I run a 1360 and a 1293, I'm building a 1412 for the van, but da Moke will be getting an 1132, with RE13 cam, 40DHLA carb and a 12G940 head etc.
Just for fun...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i agree with that, i prefer the feel of a smallblock.

i am heading the modified 1100 way...

as thats what i have to use.....

will be using GR to build it...

hopefully
1100 +100"
lightened flywheel
modified 12g202
hif44
1.75 exhaust with x tractors
double valve springs
etc,
etc


so hopefully will be screaming....

but if i had a 1275 laying around, i would use it..

as everyone says...

"there is no substitute for cubic inches"

_________________

better to work the 850 you have already

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates