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1100 Timing chain conversion
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Author:  volkmini [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:  1100 Timing chain conversion

hi, this week i'm planning to do a timing chain conversion from a single row to a double row 1275 set up. i know i have to counter sink the two bolts but i'm wanting to know more information about what else needs to be done to overcome this conversion.
if anyone has any pictures that would be great.
thanks

Author:  pristic [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:25 pm ]
Post subject: 

Buy a Rollmaster Double Row Timing chain... dont need to do anything else except time the bugger in.

Brilliant chain too :D


Peter.

Author:  volkmini [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

do u still need to counter sink the bolts

Author:  pristic [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

Nope...

Author:  volkmini [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

where can i get one from and how much

Author:  pristic [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

Ebay Here

Or shop around... might be some elsewhere... I have no idea where I grabbed mine. Maybe Minis.com.au

Peter.
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Author:  DOZ [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

You need to countersink for most types, not familiar with rollmaster though

Also check the alignment of the wheels. This is described in Vizard, basically you fit the gear bits without the chain then run a straightedge across and put a feeler gauge in between. Add shims or get the back machined to the feeler gauge dimension. An engine reconditioning shop should be able to help you.

Daniel

Author:  volkmini [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

so can i still use the orginal 1275 timing setup or not, because i have one now, off my 1275

Author:  pristic [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yeah, all I can talk about is mine... not the others or other builds.

Anyone else done a rollmaster kit on theirs??

Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

volkmini wrote:
so can i still use the orginal 1275 timing setup or not, because i have one now, off my 1275

Sure you can, fit an Iwis chain and it's the same one Rollmaster uses. These are over $50 but the best chain available now.:wink:
To time it spot on, use an offset cam key. Available in 1* increments from 1* to 9* from Minispares UK. Some Mini places here carry them too.

Author:  volkmini [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

do i need to re time the cam

Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:52 pm ]
Post subject: 

volkmini wrote:
do i need to re time the cam

No, you can just line the dots up but that's not the most accurate way if it's a reground cam. Sprocket timing accuracy varies.
I always set them up properly with a degee wheel, if motor is out of the car. If still in the car there's hardly room though.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:56 pm ]
Post subject: 

pristic wrote:
Nope...

Duplex chain is 2x the width of the single, there's not much room behind it..
Peter, I bet Graham had already countersunk that plate before, under the bench drill.
If in doubt always countersink `em- or at least push the chain back and see if there's still clearance. I've never seen a duplex kit that lets the chain clear the standard hex bolts, and it's poor engineering to put a csk screw into a hole that's not machined to suit.

Author:  pristic [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 11:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:
pristic wrote:
Nope...

Duplex chain is 2x the width of the single, there's not much room behind it..
Peter, I bet Graham had already countersunk that plate before, under the bench drill.
If in doubt always countersink `em- or at least push the chain back and see if there's still clearance. I've never seen a duplex kit that lets the chain clear the standard hex bolts, and it's poor engineering to put a csk screw into a hole that's not machined to suit.


Maybe... unless mine already were countersunk before the Rollmaster? Dunno...

Peter.

Author:  smac [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 7:37 am ]
Post subject: 

I just pulled a bunch of duplex fitted motors apart - on one I found an alternative: rather than countersuck and screwed, they'd machined down the bolts so they were basically a low profile bolt head.
Those old school racers were (are) notorious bodgers but it had been done well.

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