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 Post subject: LOCTITE
PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:57 am 
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Which ones should be in the Mini rebuilders toolbox and where are they used?

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Last edited by Wombat on Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:15 am 
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im keen to know as well as one of my thermostat bolts keeps going round and round...


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 10:03 am 
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_666_ wrote:
im keen to know as well as one of my thermostat bolts keeps going round and round...


I found some thread repair stuff that is epoxy with what looks like metal dust in it. Used it a couple of times (not on the car yet) seems to work OK.
Have a look at supercrape for it.

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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 Post subject: Re: LOCKTITE
PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 7:01 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
Which ones should be in the Mini rebuilders toolbox and where are they used?

Loctite 262 (super studlock)- I use for crank pulley bolt and key, flywheel bolt (no locktabs), and the 3 clutch bolts into the backplate.
Also on 850/998/1098 rod bolts instead of the cheese locktabs.
And on the diff side cover lower bolt that holds the LCB exhaust lower bracket.

Loctite 601 (maybe a later number now) bearing mount. Used to seat ball and roller races that have come loose in housing, or on shaft.
examples- front hub outer bearing ring, diff bearing inner ring. ONLY IF LOOSE with new bearings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:54 pm 
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LOCTITE 401 - used for glueing ANYTHING to ANYTHING


I seriously use 401 to do all kinds of cosmetic repairs to cars..... window seals, daggy door trim, plastic repairs, you name it.

This stuff will literally make your skin smoke when it comes into contact. ( yes, I accidently got some on me the other night while modifying the glovebox in my BMW, and my finger fizzed then smoked. )

Not cheap though..... about 20 bucks for a small tube, but the stuff is awesome.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:06 am 
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Yep loctite 401 superglue is a handy thing to have in the toolbox. I use it for modelmaking while i was studying architecture. This stuff will glue anything to anything, including alot of pourous surfaces. But dont use on cosmetic clear parts as it will turn clear stuff white with its high blooming. It's not cheap though costing about $18 -$22 per bottle of about 15ml

You can glue steel to steel with approx 3mpa of strength, Locktite claims. But as Supercharged 850 says, don't get it on your skin as it will stick instantly. Helps also to have some superglue solent handy. The only place i could find that was at Kmart.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:11 am 
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i used it on my crank pulley bolt when it came out on the trip to hay when we got a new bolt and were puttin that back on we coverd that in a bit off it now shes all good 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 6:45 pm 
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Also, I now use Loctite 515 for gearbox gaskets, and have not had a leak since!
It's a metal to metal flange sealant.
It's so good I even built a box or 2 with no diff side cover gaskets (because current ones are way too thick), and no leaks. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:31 pm 
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Cheapest source of Loctite 603 (replaces 601) at the moment on eBay
item 330006447584 free postage too - RS is selling this for $77 :shock:

By the way 603 is listed as a Bearing retainer, suitable for close fitting parts with light contamination with gap up to .005"

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My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 4:46 pm 
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at work we use what is called loxeal which is mainly used for taps and stuff like that because once on it creates a good seal from where you would usuall use teflon plumbers tape is also good for nuts and bolts just dont get water on it till the bolts is tight once shes tight shell never leak

cheers bob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:09 pm 
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BOB1275 wrote:
at work we use what is called loxeal which is mainly used for taps and stuff like that because once on it creates a good seal from where you would usuall use teflon plumbers tape is also good for nuts and bolts just dont get water on it till the bolts is tight once shes tight shell never leak

cheers bob

Never use teflon tape in a motor, it'll get carried around in the oil and block things up....
Loctite is better on things that vibrate, like motors... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 10:29 pm 
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I use Blue RTV (Permatex/Loctite) instead of gaskets on everything except motor to box and transfer case due to thickness requirement.

They did a test at UTS (my uni) with loctite on a shaft about 1" and then with a keyway machined and found the keyway failed before the loctite(NB - this was when loctite was newish, long time ago) so it works!

Daniel

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 3:51 pm 
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nah never said to use teflon tape on an engine its doesnt hold the thread it only seals it
but say if you had a leaking sump plug loxeal would be the way to go because loctite will not seal only hold it from vibations loxeal will do both

cheers bob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 1:31 am 
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Sorry about the thread revival, but a little bit of information to be told...


I used loctite 401 to secure a loose centre cap onto a mag wheel..... it worked good for a week, but eventually the bumps and turns have worked the 401 apart. I heard a "ting...... ting...... ting...ting..ting" while I was driving home tonight, and knew straight away what it was - the centre cap bouncing along next to my car :lol: 3 more to go.... :roll:

The centre cap was steel, and the rim is chrome. The caps felt quite tight when I checked em...... Maybe the low temperatures had affected the curing of the glue.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:26 am 
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Most all anaerobics like Loctite, Superglue etc have a falling strength/time curve- unlike epoxies which stay pretty much the same once cured.
Remember that demo ad many years ago where they hung one car under another by supergluing their seatbelts together. If they left it long enough it probably would have fallen off. :lol:

SC850, I'd use super strength Araldite next time. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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