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| removing upper arms https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33732 |
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| Author: | mikejnr [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | removing upper arms |
i have 71 clubman running hydro suspension. i have two questions, once i have un-done the nut holding the upper arm to the swivel hub can i just leaver it straight off or is it threaded on. what is the best way to take them off number 2 is, how are the hyrdro suspension bags held in place in both subframes. are the front ones held in by the two subframe tower bolts? i need to take all four of the bags out. |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 3:54 pm ] |
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Hi there & welcome 
The swivel hub is a tapered joint to the upper & lower control arms. You are best advised to use a ball joint splitter as they can often be difficult to crack. The hydro bags are "locked " in to the subframes with four lugs on the ends of the displacers (bags) which mate with four recesses in the subby. Just turn the bags left or right to dislodge 'em. Your may have to tap them with a hammer as they can get stuck. |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
the front bags also have a little braket holding them in, 2 small pk screws & they`re out tho, easy-peasy |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:25 pm ] |
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TheMiniMan wrote: the front bags also have a little braket holding them in, 2 small pk screws & they`re out tho, easy-peasy
Right on. Totally forgot about those 
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| Author: | harvey69 [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sorry for the hijack... but on the same subject im trying to remove the upper arms at the moment... but cannot seem to remove the bolt where it pivots...the body of the car is in the way,,,, any tips and tricks? cheers, tait... ( had a read through the manual but it didnt really help me..) |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:50 pm ] |
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Bit of a trap for young players. I usually remove the oval locating plate on the subby (access thru the engine bay or gap in the flitch panel). Two 7/16" af bolts to take out. The front one has a nut, the rear one a captive nut welded to the inside of the subby tower. This allows you to pull the pivot shaft forwards and tilt it enough to withdraw it from the subframe tower after you remove the nut at the rear (1/2 or 9/16 AF I theeenk). Fiddly 
PS also helps if you remove the small bump stop. One PK to take out. They are usually stuffed anyway. |
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| Author: | mikejnr [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:51 pm ] |
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Quote: The swivel hub is a tapered joint to the upper & lower control arms. You are best advised to use a ball joint splitter as they can often be difficult to crack.
thanks for the answers if i don't have a ball joint spliter what else is a good way to remove them. |
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| Author: | harvey69 [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:56 pm ] |
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Quote: thanks for the answers
if i don't have a ball joint spliter what else is a good way to remove them. hammer...lol... do the nut back up ..(not too tight...loosely) and hit it.. |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can crack the tapered seal by hitting the end of the UC arm with a BF hammer. Be very sure of your aim. Obviously, remove the ball joint nut first, or at least loosen it. Not a course I would recommend. You could accidently hit the disk. Best if you get a splitter from Supercrap. Or invest in a decent scissors type if your'e gonna keep working on minis. Best investment you will make & you will eventually need one to remove tie rod ends when your steering rack eventually karks it 
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| Author: | harvey69 [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 4:57 pm ] |
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AEG163job wrote: Bit of a trap for young players.
I usually remove the oval locating plate on the subby (access thru the engine bay or gap in the flitch panel). Two 7/16" af bolts to take out. The front one has a nut, the rear one a captive nut welded to the inside of the subby tower. This allows you to pull the pivot shaft forwards and tilt it enough to withdraw it from the subframe tower after you remove the nut at the rear (1/2 or 9/16 AF I theeenk). Fiddly PS also helps if you remove the small bump stop. One PK to take out. They are usually stuffed anyway. yer us young players are still learning.... but trying... thanks |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The only type to get is the scissor type - thirty bucks from repco and then you never have to futilely bang away with a BFH. Tip - buy the scissor type splitter BEFORE you try to separate the ball or tie rod end joints. |
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| Author: | mikejnr [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:31 pm ] |
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thanks guys i will go out and get the scissor type. with the screws in the hydro bags can i get at them from the wheel arch or from the engine bay side? |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:37 pm ] |
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Wheel arch side 
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| Author: | spraycanmansam [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:48 pm ] |
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Haha i just finished ripping my subframe apart and taking the engine out... I used a BF AXE!! not the sharp side tho... 
I was trying to figure out how to get the upper arm out too until I looked through the crud and saw the little plate, then it just popped out! 
next step, get those freekin bags out... 
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 5:53 pm ] |
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spraycanmansam wrote: next step, get those freekin bags out...
Whew! If you'd said "freakin old bags out", i would have been worried
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