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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 5:08 pm 
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Not the joint itself but the flange that comes out of the diff housing on either side , I'm trying to replace the seals before I fit the motor to the van and they're not coming off easily . I have two methods given in different workshop manuals so what do people do , I've got the bolt out of the center , plus the washers and the big rubber "washer" . The books say either a pully remover type puller or a slide hammer , what works the best on stubborn flanges ?

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 5:15 pm 
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There are two little half moon clips under the washer and rubber when you remove the bolt. I don't think they will stop the joint from coming out unless they are jammed somehow but you'd better check.

Other than that I can't see why they would be tight?? :?

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 5:18 pm 
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OK , I'll have another look , my manuals didn't mention them so I'll amend them ....

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Ian, they should just slide out, maybe you might have to give them a tap to get them out, the seal could be binding on them.

Doogie

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 7:12 pm 
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I seem to remember a detent ring around the output shafts. If so they will need a little bash or a decent pull to get them over the detent and then just fall off.

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 7:19 pm 
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Ok , thank's guy's , I'll have another go while the little dude has a nap tomorrow .

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 8:35 pm 
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Mick wrote:
I seem to remember a detent ring around the output shafts. If so they will need a little bash or a decent pull to get them over the detent and then just fall off.

No detents on S shafts, like the pot joints have.
They should just slide off, a tap from behind should do it.
Maybe somebody Loctited the big bolt, and it got into the splines... if so you'll need a puller.

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 2:34 pm 
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Your suggestion is looking like a winner Doc , everything else on this motor had been locktighted and I really had to stand on the breaker bar to get the bolts undone so I guess the original builder used locktite there as well ..... Whoever it was must have had something fall off before because they masde sure this wasn't going to fall apart . I'll get a puller and give it a go ...

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 2:46 pm 
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Ian, just make sure it's not an LSD! I think they have a circlip somewhere?
I seem to recall you don't know the history of this motor / box?

If it is an LSD, I'll swap ya!! :lol:

Graham 8)

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 2:51 pm 
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Forget that! The LSD outputs don't even have the bolt! Doh! :lol:

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Last edited by graham in aus on Wed May 16, 2007 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 2:51 pm 
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Ha , yeah I already checked the diff when I had it apart Graham , especially when I saw it was a mk2 S box .

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 5:39 pm 
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I always Loctite those 2 bolts, they have a habit of coming loose.
My other beef is the rubber washer thingys that go behind these bolts to keep oil in, are allergic to oil. Bloody aftermarket crap... :evil: "somebody should blow the supplier up" (apologies to Kingswood Country :lol: )

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Apart from the value, why do people like steel unis so much? Are there any positives over pot joints?

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:05 pm 
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The reason that I have them on the turbo engine is to enable quick engine removal (you don't have to drop a balljoint). Trouble is, I haven't removed it in 10 years!

I prefer pot joints for a daily.

Daniel

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:30 pm 
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Mick wrote:
Apart from the value, why do people like steel unis so much? Are there any positives over pot joints?


Mick, there a lot stronger than pot joints, i have steel uni's in my MK1 (naturally) and after 7 hard years of tarmac motorkhanaing & road use i've have'nt had a single failure, pot joints have been known to crack & open up under accelration, i know it happened to my father out-law, he thought his clutch was RS.

Doogie

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