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 Post subject: no torque wrench?
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:49 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:34 pm
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Location: Cowra
Was wondering if instead of using a torque wrench anybody had heard of this method before.

when i was putting my flywheel back on my car i didnt have a 1/2 inch - 3/4 inch adaptor for the socket and wrench. My grandafather told me i could use a long bar and a spring guage (is a basically retired tractor/diesal mechanic - has helped me numerous times :D ).

Anyway. He said measure up 2 foot from the centre of the flywheel (where the bar starts), and then halve the poundage on the flywheel (ie 120 down to 60), then pull the spring guage until it got to 60 pound and that is then the correct poundage on flywheel. Keeping the spring guage horizontal.
Or 4 foot up and use 30 poundage (is what i did).

I borrowed a adaptor off a mate the next day and checked it and it clicked at 120 pound.

i had never heard of this method before, has anyone her ever used it??

its great if your short on tools


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:51 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Cool, makes good mathematical sense, can't fault it!

I bet it's more accurate than a cheap torque wrench to boot.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:35 pm 
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1360cc
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i have a system where i do up a nut until it strips, then another half a turn.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:40 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Spaceboy wrote:
i have a system where i do up a nut until it strips, then another half a turn.


That sounds like my grandfather - except he always backed it off half a turn!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Adelaide
I normally just round the bolt of with a poor fitting shifter or spanner then smash the bolt around another 1/4 turn with a hammer and chisel.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:06 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
A hammer and cold chisel is good for 150 lbs/ft, I have proven this.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:13 am 
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1098cc
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Bubbu, all good with one correction (or I've misunderstood your spring gauge setup): the bar should be horizontal, with the gauge pulling straight down from that (bar on the right).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:25 am 
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1275cc
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i had it set the other way - bar vertical and spring guage pulling horizontally - i dont thing it would really matter that much :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:35 am 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
I've always been of the opinion that it doesn't matter too much if the calibrations are out a bit - it's more important to have the same amount of torque on all the nuts so that you have an even pressure over the entire area.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:42 am 
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1098cc
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Bubbu, yeah you're right sorry. I was thinking of how I check a torque wrench with weights, which means bar is horizontal. The important thing is that the force is applied at 90 degrees to the bar.


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