I still have a problem with my clutch not disengaging enough. First and reverse are hard to select and when it's in gear, the car takes off as soon as the pedal leaves the floor.
I have put on a new hose, clevis pins throwout arm, bearing and bearing carrier. And today I replaced the clutch slave cylinder but still no joy. I've tried adusting to every possible position. The only thing that isn't completely new is the master cylinder, it's a second hand one that I got off here and put a kit through it.

Is there any hope?

Has anybody else been through this?

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I would bet ( Oops almost said put money on it) that its a hydraulic system not completely bled of air.

Instead of developing huge calf muscles bleeding, take it to a motor repair shop where they have a pressure bleeder or a vaccuum bleeder. Twenty seconds and there is not air in that system. However if its a leaking master cylinder the problem will return.

Mike

I went through this with my 1275LS.

I had the clutch replaced, but still had problems.

So I replaced everything else, including slave and master cylinders etc.
Still had problems.
I couldn't understand it.

So I took it somewhere else to have it looked at.
It turned out that the diaphragm in the new clutch kit was faulty.

Another new clutch kit fixed the problem.


Ray.

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68 Morris Minimatic - Blue/White


29 Chev tourer
31 A Coupe
63 Anglia
63 VW Beetle
69 VW Beetle convertible
89 Daihatsu Charade
03 Mitsubishi Mirage
07 Nissan Micra

Mike,
The car is unregistered so taking it somewhere isn't easy, especially when you're 32k's from civilization. I think I remember seeing something about bleeding kits, do you know anything about these and if they work on the same vaccum principals?

m1n1,
This is the second clutch kit I've put in it so hopefully it's not the problem, but could be.

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Basically they are a bleed gun that attaches to the bleed nipple. There is a resevoir for the withdrawn fluid and the other end attaches to an air compressor. The air compressor creates a vaccuum, you open the bleed nipple and it sucks fluid through the system at pressure. In doing so it sucks out any air present.

Its not a complex item and they are not that expensive for a quality tool but I doubt they come from your average super cheap. More likely a specialist tool supplier.

So if you can borrow one from your local mechanic.

The slip on one man bleeding kits also make the job easier but that still requires someone to do the pedal pumping from inside the car.

I've got one that attaches to a compressor and the bleed nipple as Mike said. Mine has a reservoir to collect fluid but has a one way valve so you don't need any fluid in it to start with. I'm pretty sure I ordered mine through repco. I haven't seen them at places like supercheap or autobarn.

It was in the order of $100-150 from memory.
KB

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I had a similar problem about 12 months ago with my car, i couldn't track the problem down, i would suggest going thru the easy fixes first which sounds like what you have done before you start to rip the clutch out, mine ended up being the M/C which i had already put a new kit in, turns out it had a very small rust pit down the cylinder which was causing it to bypass fluid, i ended up getting both S/C & M/C re-sleeved with stainless, solved my problem , hope this is of some help to ypu

Minis are supposed to have a 0.750" diameter clutch master cylinder. Often these get replaced with 0.700" (brake) ones which just don't quite move enough fluid in the pedal stroke. Your symptoms are the result.
I ran a .700" one for a while as it's all I had, to make it bearable to drive I lengthened the pushrod clevis on the MC by 3/16". It worked, but a .750" one is lots better.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc,

On your suggestion months ago I replaced the 0.70" with a 0.75" MC which helped a little at the time, so I went on and replace everything else to try make it better. The 0.75" was second hand and I put a kit it, but maybe it needs a newby.

Would it be worth measuring the movement of the bearing carrier to compare with somebody elses?

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