What is likely to happen if you fit new balljoints and one is too tight?

Would it 'wear in' with a little movement?, or is it possiblt that it won't budge and could snap?

I have found that the shims supplied with new balljoints are insufficient when fitted to NEW hubs. You use all the shims and do up the nut, and the bastard is tight as a...... "you know what".

How about taking the thinnest shim out and seeing how tight it is then , it shouldn't need much to loosen it that little bit . I normally adjust with shims till I can just move it with a 4" long piece of pipe over the top of the thread . I find they loosen slightly while bedding in but not much .

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That will make it tighter. The nut will be compressing the ball downward more.

I can either leave it and hope it beds in and loosens up, or I need more shims.

How tight is tight? If you cannot move it at all then it is probably too tight, but you will find it will loosen up a bit once it has been used. I've been adjusting the shims on one of my ball joints every time I have pulled the hub off since, I hate the things! The problem with new ball joint kits is although they have an okay quota of shims, they are never right, I always keep the shims from the old ball joint, gives a few more options.

Bugger , brain failure there .... How tight is it , can you move it with a pipe spanner or is it too tight for that ? The worst case scenario is either snapping the threaded section or grabbing and loosening the cap 1/3 a turn when turning which can then continue to work loose resulting in a failure . Have you got any spare shims lying about ?

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Anton,
Often with a new joint, there are machining 'high spots' I often carefully put the stem of the 'ball' in a drill chuck with the collar positioned over it, then use grinding paste and a low drill speed to 'bed' in the joint, yes, I do hold the collar in my hand

Typical of all 'new' parts nowadays, not as good as the old!

The grinding paste treatment makes them more consistent when shimming, otherwise they are tight, you force them with a tube or something, then they go loose!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

Oh, one other thing, you do have the lock / tab washer on?

Is it a top or bottom? I usually test bottom ones without the spring, then add spring and fold up lock washer last.

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

That's a handy little idea Graham , thank's for posting it , I'll give it a go next time .

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Very interesting Graham! Yes I have the lock washer fitted Haven't bent it up yet though.

I am working with new hubs, ball joints etc.... I don't have old shims to bung in (unfortunately).

One side was tight, but I could just move it with a pipe, the other side was tight as..... and I felt it might be an issue. I fitted the hubs last night and the hub with the tight ball joint is a bit stiff when trying to turn it left / right.

I would like to leave in and hope it loosens up a tad, because as Anto said...... "I hate the things!"

i dont care about ur ball joint.

Im more excited at the progress of the GT.

Be very carefull when setting up ball joints

because "IF" they are set TOO TIGHT then they can work themselves loose , they "Un-do" themselves as you steer & fall off... Not a pretty sight afterwards

i lap them in also & allways set the bottom one up without the spring first then rip it apart & fit the spring & whack it all back together again

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Because the ball can't rotate, and the pressure wants to turn the nut instead?



I think I will undo the bastard and lap it.

Definately adjust it correctly, too tight and it will undo. They hardly wear at all if regularly lubricated so it's not going to 'bed in'.

I have always lapped in new ball joints as well

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Yep, lap them in. You will be surprised how easy knocking off the high spots is.

Never ever throw old shims away. You will need 1/2 of them to add to the precious few you get with new balljoints now.
Nut must be done up to 72 lb/ft and the washer staked up. If they come loose the results ain't pretty, and are life threatening. I know this coz i was riding in an 1100 when one let go...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.