It sounds like you have done everything you can,i have had this problem before and it sure sounds like diaphragm trouble usually blue ones,it could be the thick new drive plate as well allowing little release clearance found that if i could get the pushrod as far into the slave cyl by adding washers behind the release bearing ,much.much more effective than bending the arm, this could give you enough pedel travel to get by with until the plate wears in a bit. use shims .020" at a time behind the bearing but make sure you have clearance .015"/ .020" (free travel) or rapid bearing / drive plate wear takes place. hope this helps!

I had wondered whether washers behind the bearing would help.
I guess lenthening the push rod would do the same thing.

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hey, thought i might look to see if im the only one with this problem..... obviously not

i just put a new clutch in and a new slave cylinder in and still no clutch.
Rang up a customer of mine today @ Craft Diffs Granville.
Him and his brother used to race minis when they were young (not on a race track tho)
he had a look and told me i needed to lengthen the push rod a 1/4 of an inch.
Took it back to his work and welded a bit on the end and it was good as gold
As the clutch wears and you cant adjust anymore you just grind it back again.

I know it sounds rough but he swears by it and this guy knows his way around cars.

spacers behind bearing is much more effective than lengthening the pushrod when you look at the geometry of it ,the original b& beck replacement clutch kits used to supply a washer for this purpose , try it ,dont give up hope .

i will look into it for next time
cheers

I originally put a new thrust bearing on when I rebuilt the engine but it was the cheaper variety and I started to wonder whether these bearings were narrower. So I replaced it with the u-beaut timken variety. I don't think I can face pulling the clutch cover off again!

If I were to put washers behind, how is the bearing removed without damaging it?

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