Another way to do it is use 2 headnuts to unscrew each head stud, then slide the head forward. That's how I do it with my rusted up Maniflow LCB.
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| Ripping the Head off https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34492 |
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| Author: | thedog74 [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 2:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Ripping the Head off |
Whats the best way of ripping the head out of a mini. I've got most of the bolts off all except the ones that hold the extractors on. Do I have to get under the car to get these off. They look like a pain is the a*^&! |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 2:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nope - not exactly Depending on the type of extractors - eg 3 into 1 pipes or 3 into 2 then into one - you may just be able to lift the head off with the extractors still attached . That is; if the extractors have a "y" tube faacing up. If not the you may need to undo the exhaust retaining "cotton reels" near the rear of the car (so the exhaust is not held firm), then undo the nuts holding the extractor flanges to the head and manipulate the extractor carefully off the studs on the heads. Not easy and be careful not to damage the stud threads. |
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| Author: | gerg [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 4:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah. I agree with Mike, I took my head off and left the extractors still conected to the exhaust, all i did was remove the studs that connect the extractors to the head that way you can just lift the head straight off. Cheers Gerg |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 5:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Another way to do it is use 2 headnuts to unscrew each head stud, then slide the head forward. That's how I do it with my rusted up Maniflow LCB.
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| Author: | Maxi23 [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 5:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just a sidenote... If you are changing your head and you have head bolts rather than head studs....change to studs....bolts can snap as I found out 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 5:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yessir, old A series head bolts should all be binned. Throw away. When they stretch they break, right on the top of block... 
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| Author: | thedog74 [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 5:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
got it off finally. Blown head gasket again. Oh the joy!!! |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Doggie What comes next ??? You can just simply slip another head gasket in and bolt it all up - it will cost about $30 odd bucks for ahead gasket kit. However, chance are that it will blow again ion a fairly short time. Why did it blow ??? Was it radiator and coolant related or or without apparent cause. An alarmingly high number of minio heads have become warped over the years and its wise practice to get the head skimmed flat by a machine shop. Its also a good time to have the valve guides checked and replaced if neccessary and the valve seat faces and valve recut and refaced. Now that you have gone that far you might as well have hardened exhaust valve seats fitted so you can use unleaded petrol. As a matter of course your machine shop should have chemically cleaned the head. All this should cost about $250 - $300 but its very well worth it. Consider it if you have the funds. |
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| Author: | lil-ute [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 6:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
some wally wanted to rip my head off the other night didnt happen |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oh Al I have seen your photo  you do present a frightening appearance.
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| Author: | Asphalt [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check head AND block! They must be 100% even, especially between the cylinders. If not - both block and head need skimming. Before you put on the new gasket, clean bloch n head surface as good as possible! Clean with brake-cleaning stuff (remove any traces of fat, even fingerprints). Then put on the gasket and head. But not just bolt it right down! It needs to come very gently and even down on the gasket. Thats the correct order to tighten the nuts: 
First with 34nm, then same order again, but with 68nm. After 400-500kilometers: In same order as in pic; untighten the nuts (ONLY ONE A TIME!) a quarter turn and retighten it again with 68nm. But bevore you put the whole thing back on the street: Check if ignition is set up correct. Clean cooling-system and check if the carb is set up correct. With this procedure chances are good, that the gasket will do its job! Good luck!! Cheers, Jan PS: I guess you know that; but I mainly wrote for other who may not know 
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| Author: | DOZ [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 8:57 pm ] |
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After you do all the checks and refit the head, torque it up etc, make sure you warm up the engine, take it for a drive what ever and let it cool overnight then retorque the bolts/studs (but don't loosen them, just re-check/tighten). I always do this and have not needed to do the 500km or whatever retorque again, even with old style copper/asbestos gaskets. Daniel |
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| Author: | thedog74 [ Sat Aug 04, 2007 9:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
No the block has got a really small crack about 1-2mm down between cylinder 1 & 2. I dont know if it can be welded or if it can be ground flat with the block still in the car. If so thats whats getting done. thanks for the advice though I'll need it when I get it back. |
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| Author: | Asphalt [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 2:22 am ] |
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Could you post a picture? Anyways: welding cast iron is not easy. In my eyes a cracked block is a case for the scrap-bin. Sorry to say! Cheers, Jan |
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| Author: | thedog74 [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 1:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It goes down about 1-2mm, so I'm reluctant to take the whole block out just for that. |
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