after emptying my radiator and flushing it tonight i am still finding the water is still very brown as arron has seen. I have recently had my radiator re-cored and still the fluid turns brown. by the time the i had filled the radiator up again the coolant was already turing brown. is there any possibility that is is my head gasket, i hope not . Wat eslse could be the cause of this should i leave it for a week and flush it out again

Although you have had the rad done, there is probably a shitload of rust and muck in the bottom of the block.
There's a drain plug near the clutch slave cylinder on some blocks, dunno about yours. Anyhow they are usually clagged up too.
Only cure really is keep draining and refilling with water until it runs clear. Then put coolant or ethylene glycol (antifreeze) in it. I use the Nulon concentrated antifreeze, about 33% mix.
Redline `water wetter' is supposed to be great stuff too, but I've not seen it yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

dr, can you just disconnect the rad from the engine, then start it up and pump the crap water/rust out the engine until it runs hot then shut it down??? then refill with nice new coolant and repeat till it comes out clean??

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
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Thanks Doc ill keep reflushing. I had a slight scare though when i emptied it out for the first time though cos i found oil in the fluid. half an hour later i realised i had emptied it ino a pan that still had a bit of oil as it is my oil pan.

Brad,
Problem is, there is a lot of water/rust/muck sitting below the pump level.
Easiest I find is leave the bottom hose a bit loose on the pump, fill it up, run for a minute with the cap off, pull the hose off and let it drain, repeat exercise until water is clean. Don't forget to tighten the bloody clamp before you drive off...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is no easy way of cleaing it, as has been stated here already, do it over and over again until it runs clear. You can also put a radiator cleaner thru it, (i know there are varying veiws on them) But patience it'll run clear eventually.

Cheers

Aaron

Don't for get the heater if you have one

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Ok, the best way is this. Disconnect a heater hose at the motor and open the heater valve. Take the radiator cap off and put the water supply hose into the heater hose. Turn the water on and watch all the crap come out of the radiator. This flushes through the heater, the block and the head.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

You just can't forget about the heater...when its not use'd for some time that where it will build up
I found this out

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Just keep flushing it!

I flushed mine 5 or 6 times, and it finally doesn't turn the coolant brown.

That was 5 or 6 times over 6 or so months as well.

If you have a heater, make sure you flush that. I took mine out and ran a hose through it as fast as it would go.

One technique I wouldn't recommend is driving your car so that it overheats and boils your coolant. Doesn't do your engine much good, but helps you flush more crud out .

pull the radiator and thermostat out, put the termostat housing back on, stick the garden hose in the top rad hose and do up the clamp, turn the water on and wait till it's not coming out brown from the bottom rad hose anymore. Do the same with the radiator, and also fill it with water and put a hand over the inlet and outlet and shake the crap out of it, drain, repeat, drain, repeat etc. etc.

then put it all back together, go for a drive and you'll find it starts turning brown again - it's a cast iron block, it's designed to rust! I've had them come back from reconditioners after sitting in the acid tank for a couple of days still with rust flaking from the water galleries

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If you use the method I described it flushes the whole system and everything comes out the radiator filler hole. In days past Wynns made a mixer that combined compressed air and water to agitate the rust and move it. An adaptor to do this would be easy to make and most probably worth while. A regulator to control the air pressure would be needed.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Once it's clean by whatever means, FFS put some coolant or inhibitor in it. Or else it'll be brown and cruddy again, in no time.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah doc ill put some rust inhibitor in once its all clean. wat a coincidence i won some at the last raffle at MCC meeting

thanks guys

mrcooms look above you, you may see the light

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...