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2nd Gear Synchro broken
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Author:  Sprite_Man [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:30 pm ]
Post subject:  2nd Gear Synchro broken

I just tried to get mini Road Worthies. - No joy :cry:
2nd gear sometimes poped out - when I bought the mini I was told it was just the screws on the back of the box.
Apparantly the mechanic tried the detent screws, and is now telling me it is the synchro that is gone instead. He is trying to convince me to take the engine and box out to fix problem. He also mentioned that the mini is now blowing heaps of blue smoke after it warms up (but it never did this previously). I have put a new exhaust on and suspect that it is oil or dirt in the pipe that is causing the smoke not the engine. The engine was fine with no smoke previously. (I suspect it is a ploy for another reason to take the engine out and get some dollars out of me). He also spoke about an oil leak that will need the engine out also - I told him not to worry too much about the leaks.

If I do need to fix the 2nd gear for synchro - what should I expect to pay? (or how long would it take in labour)?

Do I just agree that the synchro is busted and pay for it to be fixed - or is their another simple explaination?

Thanks
Rod

Author:  Mini Mad [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:47 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mate i would be going somewhere else...

If it is the syncro and you have to replace it, it's only a cheap part- you will be best off rebuilding the whole box because it will cost you so much to take out...anywhere from $600-1500 depending on whats knackered. Remember if it's cheap it hasn't been rebuilt properly.

but yea..go somewhere else...register it and enjoy it while you can.

Take it to someone who KNOWS minis.

Is it Rod or Remote Change?

Author:  Sprite_Man [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 3:55 pm ]
Post subject: 

Sorry - it is a remote change. 73 Clubby. The guy I bought it off said he was sure it was just a detent screw problem and I believe him. It also didn't blow smoke. So I have 2 reasons not to believe the mechanic. - But the mechanic seems okay so not too sure what to do. Thinking I should get a permit and take somewhere else but don't want to be in the same situation again and again.
Not sure what to expect or budget for now, or how to fix, or what to do.

Author:  Maxi23 [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

Unless you know the guy you bought it off, and trust him 100%....I'd say you just got ureself a mini in need of an engine rebuild.

Did you change the oil or anything like that when you bought it ? Newer spec oil would have cleaned all the carbon deposits out...which were stopping you burning oil.

Been in the same situation. Bought a mini, two weeks later the engine dies and a full rebuild was needed. Turned out whoever built the engine originally thought they might hold it together with silastic, and go for that race-spec lightening and leave out a shims and washers....including one on the crank.

Author:  Spaceboy [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 4:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

well the gearbox, it could be a selector fork, this is a common problem but involves dissasembly of the box, and like josh said, you gotta rebuild the whole box while you are there.

if the synchro is gone, you will have trouble getting it into gear without it crunching.

blue smoke is oil, if it puffs a big load when you first start it its valve stem seals which are fairly easy to fix.

if it is constant, its piston rings which requires at minimum dissasembly of the motor, rehone of the bore and re-ring, but nearly all minis will need a re-bore and new pistons,
while you're there you gotta check the condition of the rest of it.

if it didnt blow smoke before and you just fitted a new exhaust it probably means the old exhaust had leaks or holes.

blame the guy who sold you the car.

if you're not interested in messing about with it,
i'd recommend getting a low km engine from
http://www.brickworx.com.au/

Author:  brickworx [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:52 pm ]
Post subject: 

By the time you pull an Oz gearbox apart it will cost you a lot more money than just a synchro ring...
most of these other parts are normally stuffed
2nd gear and outer hub
selector fork
double row main bearing
input bearings
layshaft and bearings.
so a $33 problem turns into a $1000 job very easily

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