how much dollars do you reckon it would take to re-ring and bearing an engine (do the rings and bearings ya self) and maybe to get it balanced and is there a benefit in getting it balanced?

Piston rings around $80, $100 or so for bearings, add in $50 bucks of gaskets, then double it.

Somebody once told me that if you spend more than $200 reconditioning an engine you're doing something wrong (he was an idiot). I tried it, and ended up spending $500 and the engine was still crap

wat about balancing an engine does it make any difference what are the benefits

For a few extra bucks, balancing the crank, flywheel & clutch components is probably worthwhile for peace of mind. But you will probably not notice any difference if you are just renewing rings & bearings, assuming it is reassembled properly.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

ok thanks just dont know what the advantages are for balancing it?

Free-er revving and longer life for the engine

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Balancing and lightening of engine components is necessary if you are going to race it , so as to get maximum performance and improved engine life , but for a normal road going mini , I wouldn't bother , unless its a high performance engine ie : Cooper S etc etc

_________________
1965 Morris 850
1966 Morris Mini Minor
1967 Morris Cooper 'S'
1977 Leyland LS

In my experience if a Mini motor needs rings and bearings, the bores are worn and the crank too (except S cranks which are HARD).
False economy to re-ring it and change bearings- I've been down that road.
Oversize pistons and rings are only $100 or so more than a ring set.
A rebore to suit is $100-150.
A crank regrind is only $100-150.
Do it once, do it properly- or you will be doing it again, soon.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Depending on what engine/crank you have i would also suggest that you check the big end and main journals are within tolerances to find out if its worth being machined then have the crank checked for "trueness" as well as crack tested prior to being machined (especially if it is an 1100 or 1275). I also agree with Dr Mini about having the cylinders in the block being checked for size and ovality, also have the block "dipped" to clean out all oil galleries and water galleries/jackets etc......
Especially agree with his statement...."Do it once and do it properly, or you WILL be doing it again, SOON!!"
Would also reccomend fitting a double row timing chain and gear set as well as the oil pump.....if you are going to go that far?? also get the head checked... valve stem seals etc.....
If so i reccommend that you have your gear box stripped inspected cleaned very thoroughly and excessively worn parts replaced as you dont want the disturbed crap in the bottom of your old g/box flowing up into your lovely brand new bearing (motor) etc and causing premature wear or worse and then having to do it "all" again therefore having to spend even more money sooner than you wanted to or thought you would have too. If you had someone do it for you then it would leave a bitter taste in your mouth (so to speak) but in the end it was your request.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

totally agree with that

ok thans fellas for all ya help....i still have a bit of savin 2 do

I'm a big advocate for balancing cranks and other necessary engine components after I decided to get my engine balanced when I rebuilt my 1275 last year. I noticed a huge improvement across the rev range and certainly smoother. It was a big difference in drivabilty too everything from idle to valve bounce hehe. Totally recommend it and as said improves longativity of life.

If it's a 1275 with big journal crank and the 1100S style rods with lumpy caps, I would lighten the rods and wedge the crank, then balance them both. This will reduce bearing stresses, the motor will have less rotating mass, and will be heaps smoother.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.