Ausmini
It is currently Thu Jul 31, 2025 5:41 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Hydro and dry upper arms
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 2:38 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18888
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Can anyone tell me what gives away a hydro upper arm from a dry apart from the mounted bumpstop? Measurements, obvious features etc..

I don't have two to compare against around the garage, and I have it from a hydro subframe converted to dry. I'd like to make sure I am refurbishing the right type of top arm...

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 3:56 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39760
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
A dry arm has the shocky bolt hole a loose fit on a 3/8" bolt (I guess 10.0mm diameter).
A virgin hydro arm has a hole about 8.5mm diameter.
But if it's been drilled out it's hard to tell from a dry arm.

If you have one of each to compare, the big knuckle joint hole on a dry arm is slightly closer to the top pivot shaft. :wink:
Some racers use hydro top arms instead of dry, as it increases the spring rate a bit.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:09 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18888
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yeah, I've checked the holes and they look pretty vigin with no signs of a dodgy drill going through or a burr. I'll have to see if I can find a dry arm to compare against.


Now I've blasted the bare arm back, the number can be seen - 21A1480 so I'll see if I can't find a part number reference.

EDIT: Well from the CD reference it has 21A611 and 610 (Right & Left). Though it shows a dry suspension in the diagram it is supposed to be for Cooper S as well....hmmm

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:25 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:07 pm
Posts: 1336
Location: Emu Plains, NSW
In the Mini Kingdom book the number is close to a hydro one 12A1482 or 12A1479.
Cheers Pete

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:28 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39760
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
My Mini Car Clinic book says
dry- 21A2690, 21A2691
hydro- 21A1479, 21A1482.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:35 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18888
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Definitely a 1480 on the arm I have blasted back, but will take that as a hydro from those numbers as they are far removed from the dry type numbers.The knuckle joint looks like it is spaced out a little further (6mm (ish)) from the inner edge of the machined pad.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 5:18 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39760
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
It was common BMC practice to make part numbers and casting numbers 1 or 2 apart.
eg the C-AEA648 or 649 cam.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 5:30 pm 
Offline
SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18888
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yep that makes sense now that you have mentioned it. Thanks for the support.

In goes the new needle rollers!

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 88 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

cron

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.