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Do Cam Bearings Need to be Reamed?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36131
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Author:  Anto [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:51 am ]
Post subject:  Do Cam Bearings Need to be Reamed?

As per title, do new cam bearings generally need to be reamed once fitted? I only ask as I have one new set here that slide perfectly over the cam, and another one that doesn't which is from a different manufacturer but otherwise looks the same. I'm wondering if it is supposed to be reamed or if it is a dud.

Author:  Wombat [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:51 am ]
Post subject: 

There are two sorts on the market - 'non reamable' and 'reamable'. Apparently the non reamable can have sloppy tolerances and you run the risk of vibration moving the bearing. This happened in my engine I'm rebuilding - not with me but previous owner as when I pulled it down the centre bearing was 8mm out of the web and had fouled the push rod. The reamable one can be reamed to a tighter tolerance and you end up with a smoother running cam. A special reamer is used that lines all three up as well.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

Most cam bearings that you could buy now from Karcraft and elsewhere for years, are pre-finished.
I even had a NOS set in a BMC box that is pre-finished.
But you need to be real careful fitting them, or they distort- which is why I pay Graham Russell to fit mine, he has the proper gear. :wink:

Author:  Mick [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

By proper gear do you mean the dollies?

Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

If that's what you call them, but I'd call them guide spigots and plates.. :wink:
It's easy to bruise and deform them if you try and hit them in without them being guided.

I'd make some guides up if I had a bunch of bearings to do.

Author:  Mick [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:08 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yep that paints a picture nicely. Thanks.

I've seen guys do it with three spigots (?) machined to fit the inner diameter of the individual bearing with a shoulder machined half way up. Then they were tapped in. Still easy to misalign I guess.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

I would put a 16mm hole in all the spigots, then pull them in with a long piece of H/T threaded rod and nuts.. No BFH required. :wink:

Author:  Mick [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

You are right, much more elegant.

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