ausmini :: View topic - Structural Body Repairs(Pics now added)

It depends.. how much you cut out, and where it is.

I put 2 front floor pans in my `64 850 without bracing it, it's OK. But I only did one side at a time, and didn't touch the sills (are still good, can you believe it) or the centre tunnel.

If you are taking out all the boot floor, back seat and rear floor together?.. I think you'd better brace it.. good..!

If it's not rusted thru at the back seat base, I'd only do the boot floor- cut across 1" or more back from the seam so you have room to weld it.

When you say `rear wheel arch' is it the outer panel, inner panel or boot floor?

And is the rear floor bad? how far gone?

WOW, I would love to see the final result when you are finished, as you have a lot of hard work ahead. If time is on your side, take it easy and the end result will be better than new.

You may even need to cut sections from a donor car. The wheel well in particular may need to come from a donor car, but the boot floor and cabin floor can easily be fabricated from something else.

:wink:

You can buy new front floor pans for $41 each side at Karcraft. 2 types- rod change, and earlier. They are UK made and don't fit Oz cars perfectly, but it beats making corrugated patches... :wink:

At least the battery box & RH side isn't too bad- pity about the spare wheel well..

The bit under the tank I'd cut back to good metal, and make a flat patch.

ps. a metal spinner could make a repair panel for that well, easy as p*ss. :lol:

Buy yourself a MIG welder. A small unit may set you back $400, or seek a second hand one. You will need one, and if you hire one the cost of that will add up to buying one. I have an arc welder you can borrow, but it's a no-go for thin stuff.

MIG welding is not only easy, but heaps of fun.... :lol:

Ive already got one. Well dad has anyway. Just that ive never learned to use it, and neither has dad really so hes none the wiser. He just uses thre stick all the time. Says something about the "wire getting stuck" as to not using the MIG

Author:	MiniK [ Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:21 pm ]
Post subject:	Structural Body Repairs(Pics now added)
When the subframes are out of the car, should the shell have extra bracing put in before removing say half the floorpan, boot floor etc

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:29 pm ]
Post subject:
It depends.. how much you cut out, and where it is. I put 2 front floor pans in my `64 850 without bracing it, it's OK. But I only did one side at a time, and didn't touch the sills (are still good, can you believe it) or the centre tunnel. If you are taking out all the boot floor, back seat and rear floor together?.. I think you'd better brace it.. good..!

Author:	MiniK [ Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:41 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: It depends.. how much you cut out, and where it is. I put 2 front floor pans in my `64 850 without bracing it, it's OK. But I only did one side at a time, and didn't touch the sills (are still good, can you believe it) or the centre tunnel. If you are taking out all the boot floor, back seat and rear floor together?.. I think you'd better brace it.. good..! my tunnel and sill are also good.....i thought the same thing. Do one side at the time. I am hoping, its only my boot floor, but havent had time to check out the rest of it yet. I have a feeling im going to need to replace the left hand rear wheel arch though

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:26 pm ]
Post subject:
If it's not rusted thru at the back seat base, I'd only do the boot floor- cut across 1" or more back from the seam so you have room to weld it. When you say `rear wheel arch' is it the outer panel, inner panel or boot floor? And is the rear floor bad? how far gone?

Author:	MiniK [ Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:38 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: If it's not rusted thru at the back seat base, I'd only do the boot floor- cut across 1" or more back from the seam so you have room to weld it. When you say `rear wheel arch' is it the outer panel, inner panel or boot floor? And is the rear floor bad? how far gone? boot floor section of the wheel arch. Well you can feel quite a draft through the boot floor. Theres 2 more riveted plates whcih ill rip up 2morrow....and im expecting suprises underneath them aswell. Ill take some shots of it and post them up 2morrow.

ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/

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Author:	MiniK [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 6:28 pm ]
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i wasnt able to get any pics today as worked decided to call me in. Ill try get some shots after work 2morrow and post them up

Author:	MiniK [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 7:12 pm ]
Post subject:
pics now up......they're quite large. http://members.ozemail.com.au/~sunsetny/

Author:	minitec [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:35 pm ]
Post subject:
WOW, I would love to see the final result when you are finished, as you have a lot of hard work ahead. If time is on your side, take it easy and the end result will be better than new. You may even need to cut sections from a donor car. The wheel well in particular may need to come from a donor car, but the boot floor and cabin floor can easily be fabricated from something else.

Author:	MiniK [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:42 pm ]
Post subject:
minitec wrote: WOW, I would love to see the final result when you are finished, as you have a lot of hard work ahead. If time is on your side, take it easy and the end result will be better than new. You may even need to cut sections from a donor car. The wheel well in particular may need to come from a donor car, but the boot floor and cabin floor can easily be fabricated from something else. lol...thanks. Im in no rush to finish it so ill take my time with her. Problem is im going to need to learn to weld or hopefully get some mates to help me wink wink nudge nudge to the sydney folk out there

Author:	drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:50 pm ]
Post subject:
You can buy new front floor pans for $41 each side at Karcraft. 2 types- rod change, and earlier. They are UK made and don't fit Oz cars perfectly, but it beats making corrugated patches... At least the battery box & RH side isn't too bad- pity about the spare wheel well.. The bit under the tank I'd cut back to good metal, and make a flat patch. ps. a metal spinner could make a repair panel for that well, easy as p*ss.

Author:	minitec [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:57 pm ]
Post subject:
Buy yourself a MIG welder. A small unit may set you back $400, or seek a second hand one. You will need one, and if you hire one the cost of that will add up to buying one. I have an arc welder you can borrow, but it's a no-go for thin stuff. MIG welding is not only easy, but heaps of fun....

Author:	MiniK [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 9:02 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: You can buy new front floor pans for $41 each side at Karcraft. 2 types- rod change, and earlier. They are UK made and don't fit Oz cars perfectly, but it beats making corrugated patches... At least the battery box & RH side isn't too bad- pity about the spare wheel well.. The bit under the tank I'd cut back to good metal, and make a flat patch. ps. a metal spinner could make a repair panel for that well, easy as p*ss. ive already got both floor pans so thats no drama at all...... battery box is fugged. I dont think u cans ee it from those pics but it barely holds the battery. Karkraft sells them cheap anyway. Only parts im concerned about are the left wheel arch and that associated flat section. Also the rear right corner of the floor, just underneath the tail light i discovered a crack today. Its made me suspicious about what damage is under there. Hopefulyl ill get soem time this week to strip everything out of there to look at the resl damage and post extra pcis when ive got them.

Author:	MiniK [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 9:07 pm ]
Post subject:
minitec wrote: Buy yourself a MIG welder. A small unit may set you back $400, or seek a second hand one. You will need one, and if you hire one the cost of that will add up to buying one. I have an arc welder you can borrow, but it's a no-go for thin stuff. MIG welding is not only easy, but heaps of fun.... Ive already got one. Well dad has anyway. Just that ive never learned to use it, and neither has dad really so hes none the wiser. He just uses thre stick all the time. Says something about the "wire getting stuck" as to not using the MIG

Author:	drmini in aust [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:
I agree, go get a MIG. I bought mine S/H, it's a Kemppi Super Kempomat, 125A, stepless voltage.. used to belong to a panel shop. I paid $450 for it, but it's lots better than most of the toys being sold for $500. Oxy is handy too- Lovely for making RHS tube frames with nickel bronze rods..

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Author:	minitec [ Tue Apr 20, 2004 9:13 pm ]
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Mini T wrote: Ive already got one. Well dad has anyway. Just that ive never learned to use it, and neither has dad really so hes none the wiser. He just uses thre stick all the time. Says something about the "wire getting stuck" as to not using the MIG Ah.....good stuff! Get yourself some offcuts and practice - LOTS! Since you have replacement floor sections and the right gear, there will be no excuses for dodgy work! Good luck.