Am happy with ride height now, but when driving, and you floor it the front sky's in the air, and under braking the rear sky's in the air. There is no place for shockers on the body, and the helpers are new, what should I be looking 4?

You can fit shocks to the front, the mount holes for the top mount are there so you can fit the mount of a dry suspension car. Then you'll either need to drill out the top suspension arm to take the shock bolt, or make a reducing sleeve for the shock. This should help fix the pitching of hydro, and competition bump stops help too (more so on the rear than the front).

where'd you get them from, how much?

competition bump stops at the rear help a lot with pitching.

My Mini K had shocking pitch problems, it had pot joint inner CV's, and when I accelerated the front would shudder like mad as they tried to separate (I shouldn't tell you that it ended up on rubber cones )

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Helpers were NOS of ebay a while ago. So I should fit competition bump stops in thr rear (and front?). Will be putting shocks on the front, Can I change the upper arm over to one which has a spot for the shocks?

apparently comp bump stops on the front are a pain in the arse... a few people have put them in, and then taken them out again

you won't want to run dry top arms in the front as the knuckle mounting point is different (further inboard) and will make the ride softer I believe - I do know that racers sometimes put hydro arms on dry cars to stiffen the front-end up, so the reverse would be true

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yep, and I'm one of them. I have a set of brand new front bumpstops that have covered about 20 miles sitting on my parts shelf. Just go with the comp ones for the rears.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

So is it hard to fit front shocks? Another job I have not tried

SO what shockers should I put on the front, anyone had good experience with certain brands? Also how hard is it going to be to put these on?
Thanks, steve

It is not hard to fit the shocks there have been a few threads about it. You need the top shock bracket off a rubber suspension mini and you just bolt the shock to your existing top arm.
You don't need a very expensive brand, you just need a little more damping to make the difference. So the cheapest shock will probably do.

So what specifically is the problem running comp bump stops to the front of a hydro car? I have had them on mine for as long as I can remember.. I wouldn't know the difference without them.

My car already has shocks and comp rear stops, but the suspension is low enough that it basically nearly rides on the front bump stops all the time.

What should I expect if I took them off?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I used to run a car with comp bumpstops all round. It made it tricky to drive at speed. Lots of snap oversteer if you backed off mid corner.
In reality the bump stop is increasing your effective spring rate, probably way beyond what is needed.
On the rear the bump stops limit the pitch on acceleration (nose-up)

I found that the front comp bumpstops jacked the front up too high, I then had positive camber and plough understeer.
So, I run standard (worn) front bumpstops, and set the height at 2-3 fingers between 10" tyre and arch. This gives me about 0.5° neg camber with standard arms.

On the rear, the car sits on the comp bumpstops- they add to the spring rate of the outer wheel when cornering, similar to what a rear anti-roll bar would do. It reduces understeer.

re fitting front shocks to hydro, check the how-to forum, I put a thread in there.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks heaps