My gears crunch when I change down. If I get the revs just right, no problem but if I try to rush it I get at the least crunching and at the worst it wont go in at all.
I am well overdue for an oil change and a mechanic told me this can effect the gears. Intending to change it on Saturday.
Any suggestions? Ill probably book it in to see Link in a few weeks but any suggestions may ease my stress. Am planning on going to Euroa on Sunday!

which gear change Alix? 3rd to 2nd? - that's the common synchro to go I believe, I've know cars to continue that way for years if you're careful with the down shifts

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'62 Morris 850 (Marion)
'65 Mini Delux - sleeper 1275/S discs (Ms Plum)
'69 Vanden Plas Princess 1300
'71 Wolseley 1300
'74 Austin 1300 Countryman
'94 XJ6 Sport 3.2
'04 Rover 75 CDTi

A fresh sump full of oil will probably make a bit of a difference (it does on mine but my gearbox isn't noisy). Is your 'box a 3 syncho? If so (as rehab stated) the weak part of the 3 synchro is the 2nd gear syncho because it gets used so much.

Sometimes slowing down the rate at which you change gears can help a little as it gives the syncho more time to align the gears.

The only way to really fix crunching gears is to rebuild.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

learn to double clutch

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Also make sure your clutch is up to scratch, just in case it is lack of clutch causing the gears to crunch. Not likely though. Double clutching will fix it and it's cheaper than a gearbox overhaul.

From forth to third and occasionally to second. Have found if I slow just right there is no problem. Guess I'll just change the oil and see how it goes. Not really financial enough to do a rebuild!

see how the new oil goes, that can help sometimes..
i think the thinner the viscosity the easier time the synchros will have trying to push the oil out of the way?

Check clutch adjustment and give it a oil and filter change. Use a good 25/50 oil see how that goes

I had the same problem in my clubman, turned out it was the primary gear that was binding on the crank shaft.
Went through all the tests and that was the problem in the end.

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1956 Bentley
1969 Morris Cooper S
1975 Citroen DS23 Pallas EFI 5 Speed
1982 Moke Californian 1275
1997 ZZR 1100 D
1989 Ke Laser Ghia-"The Runner"
2006 Holden Vectra CDX v6

I'm with Simon, learn to match revs

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

agree, it'll teach you how to double clutch and since it's worn now oyu wont ruin a good box learning

Castrol EDGE 20w50 is the stuff to get to help with gearchanges, always give me the best feel, but it's no miracle worker.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Instead of learning to match revs, you could fix the real problem in the gearbox before the bits find their way into the crank bearings.

Morris is right...but since you dont have the funds to undertake a rebuild i think it's a good option.

Change your oil regularly, as the gearbox is in the sump you don't want bits of metal living in your motor. at least every 5000km

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I think all the suggestions above are pretty good.

I've found, on the older, warn out gearboxes, taking time with 4th to 3rr changes is best. Don't quickly shove it down a gear. Try hitting the clutch, taking to neutral for a moment, then putting it into third. If necessary double clutch but possibly, from my experience, just slowing down the change is good enough.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T