when i bought tiny he had alot of rust and mud in the radiator and block and he still has, i was gonna flush it all out with a hose today and run him with water for the next to weeks and flush it out again instead of putting straight coolant in there, cause i really dont want to screw the pump and seals up.

guys at work told me that juz using the water it should be fine to get most of it out and to change the thermostat, and Not to use that radiator flush stuff.

was juz wondering if anyone has had the same problem and has any ideas to clean it out then replacing parts?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Since your a mechanic and in the know. Why dont u just pull the radiator out, take it to your prefered radiator shop that your work deals with and get them to flush it properly.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Tiny

A mini radiator and cooling system is only just adequate. It works fine when everything is clean etc. But it only needs 10% of the system to be clagged and IT WILL cause overheating.

Now in steps;
The new flushing agents do work well. They do loosen the 40 years of clag that builds up in the block and head. So do put a better quality one in and run the engine for the time specified on the instructions - be it a day or a week. Then do reverse flush the engine to wash out the mush.

But wait - there is more !!!!

The radiator, as you are aware, its a bottom tank, lots of tubes held together by cooling fins and a top tank. These tubes fill up with mush and mud over time and cut down the efficiency of the radiator by heaps. Coolant is simply not passing through those blocked tubes.

The solutions do not penetrate the mud and slush in those tubes and they remain blocked. The ONLY way is to take the radiator to a radiator place and they will take of the top and bottom tanks of the radiator and push rods through the tubes to clean out the muck. They then solder up the tanks again. It costs $50-$100 and they should pressure test the radiator at the same time.

Then you have a good cooling system provided the water pump is in good shape. There are three types of water pumps and the best one to fit is the high capacity one with the enlarged cast impellor. I bought one last week and it cost $60.

Dont listen to the blokes at work - they dont own a mini - and if you dont believe me then ask other mini people on here.

Mike

What he said ^^^
Spend $80 or so at a rad shop, and it's as good as a new UK super 2 core.
Which are around $250 now, and don't have a drain tap or plug...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Agreed!! the wynns product is ok (got it for free at one place i worked at......). i have used it before in my car as well as others i have worked on (late model stuff, alloy heads, plastic tanks on radiator etc). just do as the instructions say and all should go well.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Hey Joe ,
Listen to Mike he is spot on, if you do that you shouldn't have and problems, and remember, there's about 4-5000 years of experience with mini's on this forum not including Kev of course that would make it about 8000 years....

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May the fork be with you.

lol yeah i was gonna try something cost effective cause at the moment the car doesnt seem to be overheating or have any problems like that, but i might get some quotes from work tomorrow

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Just a wondering......?? do the radiator guys require the radiator to be out of the car to clean it properly. or can u take the car down. and they do it with it still in.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

No, they need the radiator out and on the bench.

Sorry but you have to skin your knuckles of this one.

Mike