ausmini :: View topic - 850 extractors and carby going on....help.

I'm assuming the bigger pipe on the carby is for a vacuum? And i'm not sure about the one of the float chamber.
I'm considering putting the old float chamber lid on? As it only had one pipe (1 1/4).

Would it still start without the vacuum and other pipe on?

I've adjusted the jet nut so the jet is flush with the chamber, the throttle adjusting screw is 1 1/2 turns out.
It appears to be getting fuel.

I've tried making it richer / weaker it appears to be all over the shop, whats next?
Is it correct in saying that when looking down without the piston on the jet should be flush and i should be able to see fuel?

Thanks in advance.

Michael.

i've blocked off the line going to the canister (thats not there) i've blocked off the vacuum. I seem to be able to get the car to run full choke when its cold. But once its warm with no choke it just won't run.

Author:	meehal [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:01 am ]
Post subject:	850 extractors and carby going on....help.
Hello, Finally started putting the carby and extractors on except shes not starting, anyone know what is supposed to be on these? Or can they be blocked off, there is nothing in my books about them. I'm assuming the bigger pipe on the carby is for a vacuum? And i'm not sure about the one of the float chamber. I'm considering putting the old float chamber lid on? As it only had one pipe (1 1/4). Fuel appears to be getting to it i had a leak from the jet on the float side that i needed to fix. Would it still start without the vacuum and other pipe on? I should mention at this point it only has the extractors on too. Any help would be appreciated. thank you. meehal.

Author:	sgc [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:12 am ]
Post subject:	Re: 850 extractors and carby going on....help.
meehal wrote: I'm assuming the bigger pipe on the carby is for a vacuum? And i'm not sure about the one of the float chamber. I'm considering putting the old float chamber lid on? As it only had one pipe (1 1/4). Correct on the first one, that's vacuum for the crankcase breather, I think. The second one on the float chamber is a vent, it used to go to the charcoal canister fitted to late clubbies. meehal wrote: Would it still start without the vacuum and other pipe on? Maybe, but with the vac port open it's going to be much too lean. Block it off for now and then set your mixture, you should get somewhere

Author:	sports850 [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:38 am ]
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Is your fuel filter on the right way , not sure which type it is from the pic but check it's flowing the right way as some have a no return valve that stops the fuel draining back , or the fuel pumping up if it's backwards . Yes , the one on the fuel bowl is a vent to the charcoal canister so ignore it for now , the other is a vaccum inlet that would have been for emission stuff , as SGC said just block it off for now (piece of hose with a bolt in the end is the easiest ) . Get ready for some noise when it starts ...

Author:	sgc [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:52 am ]
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The other thing is that you may need some choke to start it, from your pics you don't have throttle or choke cables attached..

Author:	meehal [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:59 am ]
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On the old setup the vacuum hose looks like it came out of the distributor? but the hose is too small now for that hole. I'll block it off and make some adjustments. Not sure about the fuel filter, i didn't change it i just took it off the old setup and straight onto the new one. I didn't actually remove it. Its a bit tight at the moment i didn't have any spare fuel line, i'll have to get some. But the fuel appears to be filling the float chamber as i had a leak from the jet at the bottom of the chamber that i had to fix up. Some noise would be good right now.....muahahahah...and i live in an apartment block....

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Author:	Anto [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 9:37 am ]
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The hose from the distributor should go to the fitting on the front of the carb just to the right of the emission fitting that you've circled. It is currently blocked off with a black plug. Not important for tuning the car though so leave it until it is running. You can swap the float bowl lid from the 1.25" SU if you want, they are interchangeable and the float level should be the same on both carbs. If it makes a difference it may direct you to where the problem is.

Author:	meehal [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:04 am ]
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ahh excellent. thats where it goes. i had the accel cable installed prior to the photo, i'll get some choke action happening tonight and block off the vacuum, change up the mixture and see how it goes. thank you everyone. very helpful as always.

Author:	richarde [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:31 am ]
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One other thing - you should block off the piece of black pipe that is coming out of the back of the ramflo, or use the little plug fitting instead to block the hole in the back of the ramflo. If you leave it like it is it will allow unfiltered air to go through into the engine. Not a problem in the short term, but it will wear out your engine if you leave it like that.

Author:	meehal [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:38 am ]
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Yeah i plan on getting a longer piece of pipe to connect the breather to it, the current pipe off the old setup was to short. cheers. meehal.

Author:	dove grey 64 [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:49 pm ]
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pull off the filter and spray some "start you basterd" (crc or similar) into the air intake aswel always seems to help, and also check your dizzy timing, and spark leads are on correctlyl

Author:	meehal [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:10 am ]
Post subject:
ok we have progress but its still not good. i've blocked off the line going to the canister (thats not there) i've blocked off the vacuum. I seem to be able to get the car to run full choke when its cold. But once its warm with no choke it just won't run. I've adjusted the jet nut so the jet is flush with the chamber, the throttle adjusting screw is 1 1/2 turns out. It appears to be getting fuel. I've tried making it richer / weaker it appears to be all over the shop, whats next? Is it correct in saying that when looking down without the piston on the jet should be flush and i should be able to see fuel? Thanks in advance. Michael.

Author:	sgc [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:26 am ]
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meehal wrote: I've adjusted the jet nut so the jet is flush with the chamber, the throttle adjusting screw is 1 1/2 turns out. It appears to be getting fuel. I've tried making it richer / weaker it appears to be all over the shop, whats next? Is it correct in saying that when looking down without the piston on the jet should be flush and i should be able to see fuel? Thanks in advance. Michael. From your description it sounds like you have the mixture nut wound all the way up to the carb body, which means the carb is running full lean. If that's the case, you'll need choke to make it run badly... You need to set your mixture correctly. I've always found a good way to get the engine running is to start with the jet flush with the bridge, then wind it out (rich) about 14 flats on the nut (one flat is 1/6th of a turn ) I think Vizard recommends 2 and a half full turns, which is about the same. That setting gets your mixture in the right ballpark, and should at least allow you to start the engine and get it idling. ASSUMING your ignition timing is right, which it might not be...

Author:	meehal [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:40 am ]
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I'll try that, i have tried starting with the jet flush with the bridge. And from memory with the choke out and the engine cold it starts. I was thinking i shouldn't have to change any timing as the car was running fine with the previous 1 1/4 carb setup? Cheers. meehal.

Author:	simon k [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:58 am ]
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meehal wrote: i've blocked off the line going to the canister (thats not there) i've blocked off the vacuum. I seem to be able to get the car to run full choke when its cold. But once its warm with no choke it just won't run. No good blocking that one off Michael, it is there to allow the air that is being replaced by fuel to escape from the float bowl.... with it blocked off, fuel will find it hard to get into the bowl. Do what you initially suggested and put the lid off your old carb on instead of that one. I trust you've made sure the piston can move freely - take the element off the air filter and poke your finger in there and make sure you can push it up easily (and that it comes down of course!)

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Author:	1018cc [ Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:58 am ]
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When you start to think you are gitting it right lift the piston up about 1/16th of an inch (take the air filter off). If, when you lift it, the engine revs rise, then it is too rich. If the engine slows down/dies then it is too lean. If the engine revs rise just a little but then settle back down to a nice steady state then the mixture is just right. Before you attempt this though make sure that the car is fully warmed up before you start.