Ausmini
It is currently Thu Aug 21, 2025 2:30 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:51 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:07 pm
Posts: 1504
Location: melbourne australia
OK so i replaced, my pistons, pads and drums and now im having trouble bleeding the system. I think i remember there being a trick to bleeding the rear of the system when you have the split system master cylinder as fitted to the late model clubmans and mokes?

How do you do it. Not sure if my proportion valve is dead, but i cannot get fluid in the rear lines. But @ the master cylinder it's working.

_________________
Image
*Reasonable pricing
*I come to you..
Jay: 0431404607


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:16 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:34 am
Posts: 2067
Location: Canberra
Have you got the separate limiting valve below the master cylinder? If so check that fluid comes out of the outlet when you bleed it, just to cancel it out.

I have heard that with the twin circuit master cylinders you need to bleed both the front and rear (of the same side) at the same time, but of course that requires an extra person.

Also make sure it isn't your technique that is causing problems. If you do the pump-pump-pump hold method, then you get enough pressure in the system to activate the limiting valve, so no fluid comes out the back. This happens on single circuit too.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: mm1275
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:53 am 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:07 pm
Posts: 1504
Location: melbourne australia
Thanks mate, I do know how to generally bleed a braking system, but just cannot get this twin circuit thing bleed. Yeah something about the same side at the same time. is what i heared 2, I removed the rear brake pipe that connects to the proportion valve, but no fluid in there. anyway 2 test this valve?

_________________
Image
*Reasonable pricing
*I come to you..
Jay: 0431404607


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:56 am 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:57 pm
Posts: 3635
Location: Gulgong
You can also progressively bleed as well

That is, undo the union between the master cylinder a bias valve. Don't undo it entirely though, just enough to get fluid seeping when the pedal is depressed. That will tell you if the master cylinder is priming. Then tighten it back up and proceeed as normal - you have fluid in the lines.

Another thing, dont repeatedly stab away at the pedal - just slow pedal depressions with pauses between each. Brake fluid is too viscous and just frothes with vigorous pumps.

If all else fails see if you can borrow a vaccuum bleeder or a pressure bleeder from a mechanical workshop etc.

Mike


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:02 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:44 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Sydney
If I have to bleed solo I get a length of the cheap plastic hose and use an old brake fluid container with a hole drilled in the top as a receptacle. When you attach the hose make sure it comes upward from the valve and terminates higher than the master cylinder. You can then open the valve and slowly pump the fluid through leaving the valve open. Any air that comes out will keep going upward and if the system sucks some back from the hose it will only be fluid. Start at the brake that is furthest away from the master cylinder and work back towards it.

Pete


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 332 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.