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what motor? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3811 |
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Author: | mooman10_0 [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | what motor? |
What motor should I put in this? I have the 998 which came out of it which just needs new rings, but I was thinking more power, maybe rover front cut, or should I spend the 4,000 on rebuilding something else? I want to stay mini, dont want to convert to a different engine. Any suggestions? ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Author: | gafmo [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 2:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Love the Colours is the roof blue as the strips are ![]() You could put a 1098 crank in the 998 saves buying a 1098 engine when you will have one with this swop, otherwise 1275 ASk the brickwork guys what they have |
Author: | mooman10_0 [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | m |
I painted the stripes the same colour as the roof. i wont have the money saved until april, and the brickworks guys suggested a rover front cut. Can go for a jap fuel injected one or an english turbo version of the 1.3litre. , or find a 1275 and rebuild it. Im leaning towards the front cut, jsut thought I would see what other people think! |
Author: | poeee [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Get a A+ 1275 and rebuild that. Would be cheaper than a front cut, plus ya get a new engine. Mini Imports over in Melbourne sell them for like $500 - $750. They are the metro engines with the BIG valves. |
Author: | mooman10_0 [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | m |
Dont you have to modify some of your engine bay to make them fit into a morris? |
Author: | Lillee [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Hey? no mods other than minor ones like a 45 degree cross brace on the front under the grille so you can fit a 13 row oil cooler in. Other than that I am pretty sure that morris's did come with 1275 A+ from the factory. I'd say if you have $4000 to spend, get a 1275 with head work, cam, and other bolt on mods with a remote change if you can find one. One problem with 1275 is you need disc brakes so factor that in to the calculation too... Good luck, she looks like a beauty! |
Author: | poeee [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
A+'s are physically the same. Your thinking of the Metro Turbo, which needs some modding to the firewall to clear the turbo. |
Author: | mooman10_0 [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Now I understand. The reason I was leaning to the front cut was cause you get everything in the one package, and dont end up spending another 2000 on brakes ect.... . I think disks are harder to find than engines at the moment! |
Author: | simon k [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I may be wrong, but a front cut could require minor body mods if it has a front mount radiator, plus there is so much more stuff in the engine bay.... as for disks, you'll need new wheels if you use the disks from a front cut cos they'll be 8.4", read the thread in mini mods about setting up honda disks to go under 10" wheels you can get more performance out of a carb motor than the injected one |
Author: | mooman10_0 [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 5:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | m |
I didnt think about that. Does anyone know for sure what type of brakes are on a front cut and if they will fit? |
Author: | dr trim [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:22 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
i thought they were all 12" wheels (some 13") with 8.4" disc. BUT i dont own or work on rovers, another question for brickworx ![]() The metro A+ engines scotty was speaking of is the same engine that i got. all it needs is new rings and that shite, very basic rebuild to get it back on the road unless u wanna bore/cam/port/balance and all the lovely stuff that costs the dollars. doc did a set of disc brakes for $190 or something, that was on the cheap, if u did it all without having any of the parts prolly cost u $400 max. better braking coz its newer thicker brakes ![]() |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:45 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Here's Barney's 1293 hybrid in etch primer.. Oz S metallic green coat next weekend. Block is a 1293A+. Don't look much different except for dizzy mount, alternator bracket, and all the ribs on the block. The beat up oil filter will stay on there, until engine is safely installed. ![]() The crappy rocker cover will be replaced by a Bling! one.. ![]() |
Author: | aaron [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
where are you geting your paint from doc? price etc would be great too. Cheers Aaron |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 7:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Etch primer can from Supercrap, $11.95. From Mini Car Clinic, p/no MINI346, Cooper S Green Metallic. 1L tin. $39.37 I know it's the right shade because I used it 10 years ago, still have old tin... ![]() I was told by the Mini Car Clinic dude that this paint is `enamel' but I know it's not. Last time, I brushed it, and it was flashing off on the brush. Looks like acrylic lacquer to me.. ![]() |
Author: | simon k [ Wed Jan 05, 2005 7:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: m |
mooman10_0 wrote: I didnt think about that. Does anyone know for sure what type of brakes are on a front cut and if they will fit?
100% sure they're 8.4" - all pommy minis after about 1984 had them with at least 12" wheels, won't fit under 10"s but if you're dead set on running 10"s, there are options, or you can sell the brakes for maybe $800 to some bunny who hasn't heard of or is scared of the honda's. Alternative is to turn them down to 7.9" and get a set of mini sport 4 pot alloy calipers, though they're very expensive. I've got a set of 8.4" disks and I'm thinking about putting them on the front of my honda conversion, and the S disks on the back - I hope to run 10"s so am going to start looking around for a caliper that might replace the standard one on the 8.4"s and fit under the 10"s - alternative is go honda or keep it on 12" wheels - lots of options....... but I do digress |
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