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Diff pinion nut removal 4 synch A series
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38382		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  norton [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:32 am ]
Post subject:  Diff pinion nut removal 4 synch A series
Can any one tell me the easiest/safest way to remove this nut, I remember I did it 20 years ago using a long bar on the socket and another long bar stuck in the gearbox somewhere to lever off. I dont want to break anything so thought it best to ask
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
1. Lock the gearbox in 1st and 4th gear.
If it's a rodchange one, rotate the main selector spool anti-clockwise to clear both selector levers, then push the synchro hubs ino mesh with 1st and 4th.
If it's a remote, remove the interlock link thingy that goes between the selectors then tap the selector shafts into 1st & 4th.
2. Find a way to hold the case stable. I wind the arse of the 16ft boat trailer (and boat!) down onto a block of hardwood placed on box above the centre web.
3. Undo with a 1-1/2" deep socket and a breaker bar. Put 1M or more of stout pipe on the breaker bar if necessary.
:lol:
Author:  jbeenz [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
:lol: i did almost exactly that except the boat was 13' 6 but half full of water, and fiberglass, so nice and heavy!
Author:  simon k [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
I used a commodore station wagon, but locked 2nd and 3rd and broke the cluster and 2nd gear :(
Author:  norton [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Dr I had the locked in2 gears worked out, holding the box was the problem. I love the boat idea trouble is mine is only 15 foot :D
Author:  norton [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
simon k wrote:
I used a commodore station wagon, but locked 2nd and 3rd and broke the cluster and 2nd gear :(


hmm the book said 1st & 3rd to be locked, any ideas on what would be strongest ?
Author:  Curly [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Not being the maritime type, and living away from the coast, I find a fork in an old gum tree works pretty well. :lol:
Author:  simon k [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
norton wrote:
simon k wrote:
I used a commodore station wagon, but locked 2nd and 3rd and broke the cluster and 2nd gear :(


hmm the book said 1st & 3rd to be locked, any ideas on what would be strongest ?


go with what Dr Mini said.... 1st and 4th - it's what everyone told me I SHOULD have used after I broke it :(
Author:  Wombat [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 3:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't have a boat so I jack up a corner of my steel framed 2.4m x 1 m steel framed and sheet steel covered work bench complete with tools and all the sh*t about the place and lower that onto the box 8)
Author:  drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
simon k wrote:
norton wrote:
simon k wrote:
I used a commodore station wagon, but locked 2nd and 3rd and broke the cluster and 2nd gear :(


hmm the book said 1st & 3rd to be locked, any ideas on what would be strongest ?


go with what Dr Mini said.... 1st and 4th - it's what everyone told me I SHOULD have used after I broke it :(

The further apart the ratios are, the less stress is on the gears.
My manual says 1st and 4th for a 4 synchro, 2nd and 4th for a 3 synchro. Those were not real strong in 1st gear.... :lol:
Author:  Pottsy [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
On this topic, I thought I'd mention the success I had recently with undoing one of these mongrels.

We had three of us holding the gearbox on a stand, and the rattle gun going full pelt on the socket. No joy.

At this stage, No 3 son remembered the electric wheel nut rattle gun he'd scored from his grandparents for Christmas. (One of those green ones from the RACV)

Can't hurt to try it sez I.

We connect it up, put it on the nut and pull the trigger.

There's a whirr like a 747 spooling up followed by a BANG which nearly twists the Son's arm off. And off came the nut as smooth as you like!

Now whether we'd softened it up a bit with the air rattler I don't know, but I'm going to try it first next time!

Cheers, Pottsy.
Author:  peterw [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 5:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you turn the box upside down it is a lot more stable and easier to hold (provided is isn't still attached to the block). Still need someone strong to hold it unless you make something to clamp it down. The long bar is the secret, it gives you all the control and not the hernia.

Pete
Author:  smac [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Boat schmoat....when I stripped the motor I'd been thrashing for about a year or so the nut was finger tight :shock:
Author:  mason [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
I put the gearbox into a press and fit a thick cut of plywood on top of the gearbox where the engine bolts that covers the whole box. clamp the press down till it holds the gearbox in place nice and firm and lock in 1st and 4th and then loosen nut :wink:
Author:  mickmini [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 4:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
i strapped the gearbox upside down to the workbench using a 2000kg rated ratchet strap. Workbench is bolted to the garage floor and the brick wall.

came off easy peasy.

cheers
michael
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