If you are using 2 pack tar epoxy (like I did for the 850) you won't need fish oil on there. Save the fish oil for all the places you can't get to- inside the sills, A pillars, above the rear wheel arches, etc.
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| Author: | the bean [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | fish oil |
hi all i just finished stripping my car tonight and i want to fish oil it then paint the floor with that tar stuff can i fish oil the floor then paint over the fish oil with tar. can that b dun |
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| Author: | cush [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:44 pm ] |
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i don't imagine that would work... |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:51 pm ] |
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If you are using 2 pack tar epoxy (like I did for the 850) you won't need fish oil on there. Save the fish oil for all the places you can't get to- inside the sills, A pillars, above the rear wheel arches, etc.
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| Author: | the bean [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:55 pm ] |
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2 pack tar epoxy wats that im talkin about the brush on stuff from autobarn |
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| Author: | DTrain [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i have no dealings with fish oil, but the previous owner used it on the floor pans and they rust out. whether it was not removing the rust properly in the first place, or just putting the fish oil on and hoping for the best, my experience is that its a waste of time. spray it in the hard to reach places it might slow the rust onset down a little, but i wouldnt use it as a preventative or a cure. i have recently stripped both underside and inside of my car (the whole car back to bare metal and rust cut out and new pieces welded in) and have used both spray on epoxy primer and brush on red oxide primer. it rained the other day and when i woke up there was a small puddle of water that could not penetrate the red oxide primer and was just waiting to evaporate whereas the spray on epoxy had started to get surface rust on the parts that had been welded from the underneath. conclusion - all epoxyed bits are now going to be red oxided. youve gone to all the effort to strip it, you may as well finish the job properly and it wont take much longer. the underside of my car is bitumen sealed and im just about to put it down on the wheels again and do the inside. looks really nice and shiny. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:17 pm ] |
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the bean wrote: 2 pack tar epoxy wats that im talkin about the brush on stuff from autobarn
Sounds like ordinary tar paint. Not real great in the long term. Tar epoxy is a 2 part mixture of tar and epoxy (think Araldite) that sets to a waterproof coating with excellent adhesion to steel. It's what they paint steel boats with. 
I bought it at Bias Boating Warehouse. product code is 855A, $42.90/L or 855B, $124.90 for 4L.
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| Author: | DTrain [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:27 pm ] |
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i got mine from bunnings, its about $35 for 4Ltrs from memory and its a fibrous bitumen sealer made for household gutters, inside water tanks, concrete retaining walls, and automotive uses. sets solid in a week to two weeks and is very shiny gloss black. its in an orange tin
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| Author: | the bean [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:13 pm ] |
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i put fish oil on the floor a few days ago and it looks wet is it ok to paint over or will is rust |
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| Author: | sports850 [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When you say it looks wet , do you mean it will lift off when you touch it or it's just shiny like it's wet ? I've never painted over fish oil so can't comment too much , I've always used it over the top of paint . Is there any instructions about painting on the can ? |
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| Author: | Blokeinamoke [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:31 pm ] |
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you cannot paint over fisg oil. The paint will not adhere to the metal. Fish Oil works by being a barrier - the last think you need is barrier between the primer and the metalwork. Fish oil is only useful in places where water can condense from the air as it does not give a point of condensation. I would reprep the panel with wax and grease remover - and seal the panel correcty. |
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| Author: | huphim [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Fish Oil |
I have used Furtan on my 5 Mokes You need a slighty rusty surface for it to react wih and can be painted over. It reacts again if it should get wet, gets into saems etc. Look at their website Amazing stuff!! |
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| Author: | DTrain [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
fertan |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 4:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Stink |
I think you have been talking to some old codger....fish oil stinks!!....it was OK to use when he had nothing better!! But there are fabulous rust converters and treatments around now....and... fish oil stinks!! |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Stink |
9YaTaH wrote: I think you have been talking to some old codger....fish oil stinks!!....it was OK to use when he had nothing better!! But there are a fabulous rust converters and treatments around now....and...
fish oil stinks!! It'll be working long after those rust converters aren't. 
BTW fish oil eventually dries to a skin and YES you can paint it, with some paints.
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| Author: | the bean [ Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
looks wet/sticky and i mean paint it with that black tar stuff |
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