Ok, help me identify this car...
Body number is 2856(on firewall and radiator support)
850 Id Body plate.
drilled drainage holes in roof gutter.
engine number 9FSAL... doesn't look factory stamping, 12g202 head
no fuel pump hole, 22G68 gearbox, rubber uni's.
wiring looks to be right... solenoid wiring up front
twin carb's, early manifold, aftermarket extractors
Magic wand gearlever hole outline but not cut out.
Brackets for heater. RH Tank hole, Cooper S brakes
Holes where boot board brackets have been removed.
Sliding window Doors have clips for chrome surrounds.

Any ideas? wanting to advertise car/parts but be 100% sure it is all cooper
car is surface rusty all over, with a fair bit of rust in floors, boot, panels.
any where metal is really.

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Sounds like a puzzle!

My thoughts:
997 engine can be added easily, as can the S brakes. Someone else might know if there is a difference in the hubs (part no, casting difference?)

Same number on rad support as firewall? Sounds odd. Any other numbers / codes on rad support?

Does the remote shift hole look factory cut? Only coopers (and S) had a factory cut hole until the deluxe in 65, so that would be a strong indicator on the shell being cooper or S origin. If not then I would guess it's a modded 850.

Also no cooper came with the right hand tank, although this and the boot board brackets are a common addition, so holes where they have been removed aren't a strong indicator.

Does it have cut outs in the front valance? Helps identify it as mid 64 or earlier shell. I think all 997 coopers had the full front valance.

My thoughts,

Now over to the real experts......

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Front swivel hub castings for Cooper and S are the same.
Yes all 997s had full front valance.

Sounds like probably a 997 shell to me, floor sounds right, but the numbers shouldn't exactly match on body and rad shroud, and an 850 body plate doesn't sound correct. Could be a real early build one I guess...

ping graham in aus... he's da 997 man here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Does it have padded dash rails, cooper ash tray? Also are the brakes 7.0 or 7.5" disks? The boot should have the boot board brackets and no RH tank.

Also are the doors sliding windows with the chrome moulding trim? Is the speedo a 100 mph? If these items are there then it strongly leads to being a cooper. You might have to wait for the next edition of TME which will have a cooper feature.

I must really introduce myself, I bought a 63 cooper project minus engine and I am in the process rebuilding it. I have sourced the correct cooper doors and trim, upgrading the brakes to S disks as I am missing the 7.0" disk LH caliper (anyone have one?) and will install a S engine (still trying to hopefully get the original engine through!).

Any pics?

Cheers

Front panel and valance look to have been changed, ends have the cut outs.
long extensions on carpet clips.
rest of the body is stripped bare.
lots of good parts missing
vinyl covered dash tops are not there, but paint is decent, leading me to believe it has been removed.

i need someone who knows any body mods that can't be replicated.
i believe it is a cooper, but you never really know.

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email sent with some pics attached.

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1964 998 Cooper , 1968 Morris 1100

Engine sounds right 9FSaL. Confirm by measuring bores.
Doors sound right - the two end fixing studs/clips should be straight edged not rounded like the rest. Doubt whether anyone would go to the bother of fitting SS trim fixing clips to an 850 door anyway!
Check if the heater brackets are spot welded to the floor pan as per original - this is probably your best clue.
Rest sounds dodgy otherwise.
My early Cooper (one of the first 250 or so produced by BMC Australia) has the correct ID Plate so a 850 Plate is wrong.

Just another thing to check is the position of the boot board bracket holes on the right hand side of the boot hinge support panel. The Cooper's bracket mount is in a different position to the Cooper S. The Cooper bracket mounts further to the right because there was no RH tank. The Cooper S bracket is moved slightly towards the centre of the car to accommodate the RH tank.

A Cooper caliper won't be any good to you if you're going to fit 7.5 inch disks - they won't fit. I probably can help with a caliper if you need one for 7 inch disks though.
Good luck with finding a 997 engine.

We actually know where the original engine is (just need to get the scrap metal man to agree to sell it!).

To clarify, I do have a full set of S brakes, it just would be nice to complete the set of 7" disks, hence the need for a LH caliper.

Cheers

look on ebay this week...

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Ho guys,
One Cooper feature is very hard to replicate. There are two square cut-outs in the seat cross-sill to take the two remote gearchange bracket bolts. These are positioned on the left front and rear right side of the hump and are cut into the cross-sill flange. Another Cooper S detail often providing a clue are is the Cooper switch panel should be smoke grey and the S brake pedal is different and sits higher than the clutch pedal. If it is an English assembled car, it should also have a body number plate on the bonnet shut/grill crossmember. On a Mk1 S, the starter solenoid bracket makes the solenoid sit at a 12 o'clock position, all others sit at 2 o'clock.

Regards
Al

Check the remote extension cut out and bracket location. These are hard to duplicate in an 'as from factory' way. post some pics!!

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

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Miniworx Centre 0883741299
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Can you post some pics of the remote cutout, remote bracket holes and the magic wand 'cover'?

Thanks

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Spiders....

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