ausmini :: View topic - engine internals

Yes will fit but will have to play around with thrust washers, and end float

Yes. Mk1 & Mk2 S main journal widths are the same, so the above applies.
The opposite applies too. I run a Mk2 S crank & rods in an 1100S block. Again, just need to play with the thrust washer thicknesses to get the end float right.. :wink:

Hi,
Another crank question.
I was reading an old mini magazine and it said,
If you use a LS1275 big journal crank (1.75 big ends), offset machine the big ends down to 1.625 diameter use this in a Cooper S block you will get an 1/8 of a stroke. Does this simply mean you just grind your LS crank down to 1.625 on the big ends and put it in a Cooper S block and you get an 1/8 stroke.
Thanks

Thanks again Dr.
Is this worth doing, and what sort of power gain is there.
Thanks

Gezo wrote:

Thanks again Dr.
Is this worth doing, and what sort of power gain is there.
Thanks

You do gain torque, but I think it reduces revability. Crank is a bit more `whippy' than stock due to the extra stroke..
I'm tossing up now whether to bore my auto block to 1360, or stroke it to 1405.

I'll probably stay at 1360, I've got Hypatec pistons already.

Author:	Gezo [ Sun Jan 09, 2005 2:29 pm ]
Post subject:	engine internals
Hi, Does anybody know if an 1100S short journal crank and internals will bolt straight into a Mk1 Cooper S block. Thanks

Author:	brickworx [ Sun Jan 09, 2005 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:
Yes will fit but will have to play around with thrust washers, and end float

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sun Jan 09, 2005 6:20 pm ]
Post subject:
brickworx wrote: Yes will fit but will have to play around with thrust washers, and end float You can get std, +.003" and +.030" thrusts. But the +.030" are NLA according to many sources, including Karcraft. Vandervell stopped making them. If you got 'em, hoard 'em!

Author:	Gezo [ Sun Jan 09, 2005 8:38 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi, Thanks for your knowledge.

Author:	Gezo [ Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:58 pm ]
Post subject:
Do the 1100S crank and internals also fit inside the Mark 2 Cooper S block? Thanks Again

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engine internals https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3889	Page 1 of 1

Author:	drmini in aust [ Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:06 pm ]
Post subject:
Yes. Mk1 & Mk2 S main journal widths are the same, so the above applies. The opposite applies too. I run a Mk2 S crank & rods in an 1100S block. Again, just need to play with the thrust washer thicknesses to get the end float right..

Author:	Gezo [ Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:13 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks Dr again

Author:	1380 yellow devil [ Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:00 am ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Yes. Mk1 & Mk2 S main journal widths are the same, so the above applies. The opposite applies too. I run a Mk2 S crank & rods in an 1100S block. Again, just need to play with the thrust washer thicknesses to get the end float right.. Thats good to know I wil do that with my Next Motor.

Author:	BLACKRZ_667 [ Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:38 pm ]
Post subject:	???????
Hey Guys I was just wondering what i should do to my mini clubman that will make it preform better and what price i would be looking at thanks

Author:	Gezo [ Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:05 am ]
Post subject:
Hi, Another crank question. I was reading an old mini magazine and it said, If you use a LS1275 big journal crank (1.75 big ends), offset machine the big ends down to 1.625 diameter use this in a Cooper S block you will get an 1/8 of a stroke. Does this simply mean you just grind your LS crank down to 1.625 on the big ends and put it in a Cooper S block and you get an 1/8 stroke. Thanks

Author:	drmini in aust [ Fri Feb 04, 2005 1:36 pm ]
Post subject:
Gezo wrote: Hi, Another crank question. I was reading an old mini magazine and it said, If you use a LS1275 big journal crank (1.75 big ends), offset machine the big ends down to 1.625 diameter use this in a Cooper S block you will get an 1/8 of a stroke. Does this simply mean you just grind your LS crank down to 1.625 on the big ends and put it in a Cooper S block and you get an 1/8 stroke. Thanks You need to offset grind the big ends to 1.625". This means they are set up in the grinder to take 99% of this metal off the inside of the pin, and bugger all off the outside. This moves the reground pin's stroke radius outwards. Then you use S rods, but they are too wide and must be narrowed to fit. And the pistons will now stick out of the block. So you need to get `stroker' pistons with a shorter pin to crown height. Sometimes you can machine the piston top of stock pistons, if thick enough. Not always. Whether a 1275S block or later 1275 block doesn't matter. They are pretty much the same deck height.

Author:	Gezo [ Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:23 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks again Dr. Is this worth doing, and what sort of power gain is there. Thanks

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 6:04 am ]
Post subject:
Gezo wrote: Thanks again Dr. Is this worth doing, and what sort of power gain is there. Thanks You do gain torque, but I think it reduces revability. Crank is a bit more `whippy' than stock due to the extra stroke.. I'm tossing up now whether to bore my auto block to 1360, or stroke it to 1405. I'll probably stay at 1360, I've got Hypatec pistons already.

Author:	1310/71 [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:11 am ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Gezo wrote: Thanks again Dr. Is this worth doing, and what sort of power gain is there. Thanks You do gain torque, but I think it reduces revability. Crank is a bit more `whippy' than stock due to the extra stroke.. I'm tossing up now whether to bore my auto block to 1360, or stroke it to 1405. I'll probably stay at 1360, I've got Hypatec pistons already. Careful Doc - you're giving away a few Wakefield Park secrets there. Now the guys will know what you have up your sleeve

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