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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:46 pm 
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Ok guys, I wanted to have an open discussion on what it takes to make a FWD car ( ie a Mini 8) ) hook up at the drag strip.

Things like how to minimise weight transfer, wheelie bars, traction bars, etc.

Anyone that has experience or know someone thats implemented techniques to increase grip you're input would be great.

Begin... :D


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:56 pm 
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Inflate rear tires to max of Manufactures specifcation.
Get the Softest compound Tyre for your size wheels
And
Practice.
If you were in Sydney we have the Street Meets on Wednesday Night @ WSID

Please dont practice if your on the street :?

Sorry I don't know your drive train

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:48 pm 
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Haha no gaf this isn't so I can practice on the "drag strip" :wink: :lol:

I just wanted to chat in general about what it takes to make a FWD car hook up well.

I'm going to be getting some nice power out of my Mini very soon and I want to be able to get it too the ground :) And I'm sure other people would be interested in how to do this :)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:21 pm 
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stiffen the rear


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:17 am 
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FWD cars don't hook up really, that's why they get done by RWD cars. :lol:
Like spaceboy says, stiffen the rear. An LSD might help you avoid broken stock Mini diffs (which is happening lately) and give better grip if strip traction is uneven..

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:52 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:47 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
FWD cars don't hook up really, that's why they get done by RWD cars. :lol:
Like spaceboy says, stiffen the rear. An LSD might help you avoid broken stock Mini diffs (which is happening lately) and give better grip if strip traction is uneven..
For drag racing I am sure that the camber and castor would need to be different to normal road/circuit figures.
I think that around zero on camber but I have no idea about castor.
What about toe?
The thing to remember here is that as the nose lifts it will change the camber. So you have to figure out the best static camber to allow for what it is really doing.

I would run a locked diff if it was a drag only car.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:18 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
FWD cars don't hook up really, that's why they get done by RWD cars. :lol:
Like spaceboy says, stiffen the rear. An LSD might help you avoid broken stock Mini diffs (which is happening lately) and give better grip if strip traction is uneven..


Who says it's a mini diff? :wink: :P

Morris 1100 wrote:
For drag racing I am sure that the camber and castor would need to be different to normal road/circuit figures.
I think that around zero on camber but I have no idea about castor.
What about toe?
The thing to remember here is that as the nose lifts it will change the camber. So you have to figure out the best static camber to allow for what it is really doing.

I would run a locked diff if it was a drag only car.


Yeah I would think you'd want as much of the contact patch of the tyre on the ground, never really thought about that camber-wise.

I think you'd want your toe set to 0 as apparently it makes the car edgy at high speeds.

I want to have a look into wheelie bars for the track as these would kill weight transfer as they act as your back suspension :wink:

What about tilting the engine forward so the weight gets forced onto the wheels under acceleration, I've seen this done on a few ( obviously not for a street car )

I've also heard about these "traction bars" which minimise axle tramp, does anyone know anything about them?

Cheers,
Sam


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