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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:47 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
hello im currently removed my old dash to make some dash cards and came across this...

I should mention its a 1963ish 850.

this is on the drivers side, it looks removable? anyone know what it is and what it does?

Image

And this was near the speedo it doesn't look like its connected properly?

Image

If anyone knows anything about these items that would be great.

cheers,

michael.[/img]


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:58 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:07 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Tasmania,Hobart
im not too good with cars but from what i ahve learnt from my car that thing in your hands looks liek a voltage regulator or a ticker for indicators looks more liek a voltage regulator but most likely soem one will prove me wrong :D and that thing on the right hand side of your car in dash could that be the air intake? cos in pictures ive seen 850s with big air vent pipes going that direction where cool air from the grill goes into the cabin the clubman had the same but it went around the right arch and into lower half of front cabin area. but liek i said ill be proven wrong haha a guess is better then being clueless hey?

ne way hope you find out what they r

luke


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:15 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:07 pm
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Location: SE Melbourne
Top pic: ducting for demister.
Bottom pic: Air filter. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:36 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:01 pm
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Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Voltage Reg.

And the vent is spot welded to the firewall. I drilled the spot welds out and removed mine from the firewall, and welded up the round hole in the firewall.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:56 am 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
That spot welded RH ducting was in the 850 and Mini Deluxe. if you specified a heater you got a freshair (undr bonnet) one, same as a MiniMatic got standard.
That got you a working demister on the RH side, as long as the car was moving... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:58 am 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I gots a '70 Mini K with the ducting as well for the under bonnet heater.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:08 pm 
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Yep all roundnose shells got it except the Cooper and S.
The `heater' was pretty useless in traffic with no fan... mine now has an Attwood 3" bilge blower in the ducting 8)
Back in the 60s even Holdens had no heater fitted stock. My dad bought a new Valiant in 1969, then he fitted an aftermarket heater.
Fitting heaters was a thriving business.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:08 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:35 am
Posts: 164
Location: Townsville, Queensland
might just leave everything where it is then, hopefully the dash cards fill fit around the vent.

more on the speedo, any thoughts as to why its not lighting up when the lights are on. I can see the oil and ignition lights fine but when turning the lights on the whole speedo isn't lighting up.

Does the switch on the right need to be connected? i've tried connecting it flicking it on and off but they aren't lighting up.

What causes fuel gauges to be inaccurate?

thanks for the help everyone.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:29 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yeah the lights should come on with the switch, but they are only fed 12 volts, they have no ground provided.

This means that they will only come on if the lights are grounded by mounting them to the grounded speedo, or touching the metal part around the bulbs to a metal part of the body. Give it a go, they should light up if there is 12 volts available on the red wire to the lamps..

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:44 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:44 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Sydney
The early cars didn't have a voltage stabiliser for the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge had a thin needle and used to jump around a lot.

The later cars had a slow moving fuel gauge with a thicker needle and stabiliser.

Maybe your car was converted at some time with a later fuel gauge hence the stabiliser.

If you have an early fuel gauge you need to get a wiring diagram and check it is all correct.

Pete


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