Mike_Byron wrote:
Brake compounds were good - they were absestos and the braking qualities were well documented. Unfortunately the brake dust had the potential to kill people.
Mike
Mike
as opposed to having crap brakes and getting killed anyway
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| Beding in brakes and pads https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=39304 |
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| Author: | brett [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Beding in brakes and pads |
how should I do this?? I have fitted new Cooper S Rotars, and pads. They don't seem to have much bite, put a nice brake feel. well compared to my old warped discs ad pads |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It depends what pads they are. If they needed something special (metal pads do for example) there would be a bit of paper with instructions in the box. Otherwise, just take it easy for 300km or so, don't get them real hot until they have bedded in. They will feel reasonable to stop with after 10 miles or so. |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Once upon a time, you would go down a quiet road, get the car to about 80 kmh and stand on the brakes at point just below a lock up until the car was reduced to about 5 kmh. Then you would do this twice more and then regard the brakes as bedded and drive normally. I still do this and it works fine for me - note - fine for me. Now, brake compounds are ungoing constant revision to find the perfect brake compound material and there is a wide range of material available. There may be lots of information on each of the various compounds on the net. Brake compounds were good - they were absestos and the braking qualities were well documented. Unfortunately the brake dust had the potential to kill people. Mike |
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| Author: | brett [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mike_Byron wrote: Brake compounds were good - they were absestos and the braking qualities were well documented. Unfortunately the brake dust had the potential to kill people.
Mike as opposed to having crap brakes and getting killed anyway
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| Author: | Mick [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:35 pm ] |
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I still use mike's method. Only cos it's pretty simple. Amazing how hot they get the first few times.. |
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| Author: | Hanra [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:43 pm ] |
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When i did my civic conversion, i spoke to the guys at the brake shop who supplied my rotors and pads. They suggest the same, get it up to 80klms, lightly drag the brakes to get them warm then stand on them. Do this once again, then continue driving and allow the brakes to cool. Then repeat. And that should do em? Seemed to work for me. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:44 pm ] |
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When I was racing most high performance pads need bedding in the way that Mike said. (This is cooking the gasses out of the pad) Go fast, hit the brakes hard, slow till nearly stopped, go fast, hit the brakes hard, etc. You kept doing this till the pads faded (pedal was rock hard and the car would not stop.  ) You then let them cool down and they were Ok to race on.
The newer high performance pads would not need bedding in this way. The Bendix Ultimate pads that I was last using on the track in 2000 were Ok to use straight out of the box. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
my mechanic mate beds in the same way.... it's important not to lock the brakes up or stop, as the heat from the pads will create a hotspot in the rotors at that point |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:43 pm ] |
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My advice was based on what EBC recommends, they say don't overheat their Blackstuffs or Greenstuffs in the usual way others recommend, just take it easy and let them bed in gradually. Maybe it's because they have lots of kevlar in em...?? |
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