Some ideas of best materials and stages.... Needs some body work so gonna get it COMPLETELY blasted, coated in what ever you suggest to keep it rust free. Then do the 'issues' then go on to fully finish!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

If completely blasted, I would suggest por15 system to be sprayed on...
2 coats at least...in the silver not the black, as it has fine metal incorporated into it to assist fill up any porous areas better....like after being blasted, then use their hi-fill primer....which will then be ready for any paint

After sandblasting get it primed in epoxy 2 pak immediately that will keep it safe from the elements, then do any bodywork etc etc.

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Will that need to be removed as time goes on before the final primers and paint coats??

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I think he may have just meant cover it all in 2 pak primer then after any body work is done give it another quick sand to roughen up existing and next lot of primers can go on...unless it's going to be done with por15 as that should be put on bare metal...

I always seem to get those bastard humidity spots after two years, so this time I will work my bum off to keep them out! I'll be in a similar position to you after beadblasting.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Epoxy 2 pak primer will protect it from the elements (something like PPG DP40), I've heard of people leaving their car out in DP40 for quite a few years and its still fine - warning though it isn't UV stable so needs to be covered by a tarp or something else. Cost is about $330 for 6 litres worth...

Once the body work is all done you can roughen up the epoxy with 240 grit paper and apply filler (bog) to the epoxy then 2 pak hi-fill primer and then a sealer coat of epoxy then base coat and clear coat. I'd also clean the epoxy before sanding too with something like window cleaner and wax and grease remover .
The cheaper option is etch primer but it can let moisture etc in but if the car is all straight and you don't need to apply filler you could coat the etch with 2pak hi-fill and then it should be moisture resitant.

BTW Mick how's your resto going, haven't seen an update for a while (although I can't talk mine hasn't been updated for ages )

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I agree with the 2pac primer,,I used industrial which layers could be put wet on wet,also high build..The prepwash is a exellent cleaning product..after sanding etc good for cleanig of fish oil even after it sets..

Wise man once said:

Many distractions. But work starts again soon, that will motivate me to waste my leisure time on poorly chosen pursuits again.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.