I'm restoring my ute (formally a panelvan). I got the fuel tank out - eventually and found this...



close up:


Obviously that's not chewing gum haha. Thing is, I want my ute to look perfect when the resto is complete and that means no bodgy repair. What is the best way to repair this? (note, i've not removed it yet, will post a picture once I do).

On a side note, getting the fuel tank out was a complete pig of a job. There are 6 screws. The 3 on the bumper side were of course easy. The 3 on the subframe side were a bugger i.e. since the fuel tank is right up against the subframe it was very hard to get a screwdriver in between the tank and subframe to undo them. I'm wondering if there is an 'easier' way - although I doubt it. It would have been easier if the subrame was removed first but that wasn't going to happen. Insight anyone?!?!?

The only real wa to fix a van tank invisibly is to buy a new or better used one. Most of them have some damage.

With regards to the tank screws, it helps if you really soak them in Penetrine or similar a couple of days before you want to remove them. Then an impact driver can be used to give them a shock and get them moving.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Ive got a van tank somewhere,,i'm in w.a. to...P.M me if your interested!! Cheers

why wasn't that going to happen? you can't do a perfect resto without taking the subframes out - if you don't do the underside properly with subframes out, then it's a bodgy resto

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

When I said it wasn't going to happen, I meant just not yet! Yes, the subframe is coming out - but not until i've got most or all of everything else off (I need it as a rolling chassis). This is the first van/ute i've done, so I didn't realise the tank would be relatively difficult to remove. I couldn't remove the electrics from the rear (right hand rear lights in particular) as they were jammed between the fuel tank and car body. I wanted to get all ancilliaries off before tacking suspension/brakes/subframes etc. Maybe it would have been better to get the subframe off first in the end . Anyway, when it finally comes to putting everything back together, i'll look at getting the fuel tank and electrics in before the rear subframe, rather than struggling with inaccessable screws.

Tanks can be cut open and repaired by a specialist, some radiator repair places can do it. Alternatively you can solder repairs on the exterior (using a big electric soldering iron, not gas).

Or if you're really keen you can cut open and weld repairs yourself, but its not something you'd do without researching it first. even an old dry tank can explode. The welding heat generates explosive vapours from the residue inside. I saw a photo of a tank that exploded while being welded. It was opened out flat. Luckily it exploded away from the guy.

There is an old trick for welding tanks where you fill them with water until theres just a small bubble of air. Arrange the tank so the bubble is beneath the hole then mig the hole up. The small air space and the steam generated by the welding will prevent the big bang. Some people flood them with MIG gas for the same reason.

Alternatively there are a few liquid products that you pour in and slosh around. They are probably only a medium term fix though.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

do it rite the first time


I know its about the tank but its whats behind it also

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It