Hi guys,

Got some more done on the mini this arvo (the main project, not the side project clubby )
Firstly, can't find my info sheet that came with my shocks, so I don't remember what torque setting for the top bolt on the rear shocks.

Secondly, how are you supposed to properly adjust hi-lo's? If there too low the cones fall out (obviously need lowered shocks, thats fine) but what about an in between adjustment? The cone may not fall out but there is movement between the parts? eg. The front cones drop down from the steel and then when the weight is back on it gets jammed back up into position. Surely this can't be good? So I've just adjusted my out so the struts have just got weight on them when at full unload.

bingo!

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Don't suppose any one has the torque settings?

There isn't really a torque figure. Just do up the nut enough to snug down the steel washer onto the rubber bush, squashing the rubber bush a little. Don't keep winding and winding on the nut because you will just squash the rubber bush and destroy it. The actual torque you need to put on the nut to achieve this is not much at all - just a flick of the wrist. Then lock the second nut onto the first (using a second spanner) to stop it all vibrating loose.

I was looking for info along these lines last night. I found the following on minispares.com.


General Information
These specialized and RAC FIA homologated suspension components are designed to allow the ride height of all Minis with “dry” suspension to be easily adjusted. In addition, the diameter of the rubber cone support lip is larger than the standard cone to increase effective spring rate.
This makes them suitable for fitment in all the following cases:-
ROAD CARS - For load carrying and towing to optimise handling and adjustment.
RALLY CARS - Increase height for rough forestry stages then lower for smooth tarmac.
RACE CARS - Stiffen and lower the suspension as far as possible but can still be raised for bumpy circuits.

INSTALLATION
Fitment of the Hilo unit should prove a straight forward replacement of the existing aluminium cones. Be careful to ensure the hole (A) drilled in the side of the alloy cones is accessible once fitted to prevent the cone rotating when it is being adjusted. (the two plastic blanking plugs should be inserted in the rear units). The only extra work necessary if you are using the old adjustment method of hexagonal rods is to drill two holes in the rear valance through which the long hexagonal section rod may be inserted for quick adjustment. (Only possible on Minis up to 1990).

ADJUSTMENT
The threaded bolt (B) in the Hilo unit has a total travel of 33.5mm. This theoretically allows 100mm of adjustment on the front suspension and 167mm on the rear although this will be limited by other suspension and bodywork considerations. This permits the car to be raised or lowered as required.
Before carring out any adjustment the lock nuts (C) must first be released. Adjustment of the front units is then acheived by use of a spanner on Bolt Head (D) or passing a shorter hexgonal rod through the existing hole in the bulkhead crossmember (it may prove easier to first remove the bonnet) and rotating the rod with a suitable ring spanner. Great care should be taken to ensure the car is supported on the front subframe before removing the locating bolts and cover plate or single central locating bolt. Failure to do this could result in the subframe location being disturbed. The rear units arer simply adjusted by the same method or passing a longer hexagonal rod through the hole already drilled in the rear apron. Both front and rear units are easily adjusted however by turning the bolt heads (D) with a spanner. If the cones start to rotate when being adjusted this may be preveneted by inserting a rod or screwdriver in the drain hole (A).

VERY IMPORTANT
The Hilo unit should only be adjusted once the car has been jacked up. Do not try to force the bolt round once it has reached the end of its travel in eather direction. If the Hilos have been fitted for some time or used in very dirty conditions it is a good idea to clean and lubricate the exposed thread before adjusting .
If using very low ride heights the rubber cone may become displaced when the vehicle is jacked up. In addition, shorter shock absorbers should be fitted to prevent any possibility of them “bottoming out”.
When ride heights are adjusted to extremes it is advisable to reset the steering geometry and wheel alignment.

Thanks for the info. I'll see how it all sits on the wheels and with my arches, otherwise I'll go out and buy lowered shocks.