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 Post subject: lead loading
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:02 pm 
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Hey All,

What is everyones thoughts on lead loading. I have been advised that this is a good technique to use for filling small holes in panels rather than replacing the hole thing.

I have been calling around to try and get some flux and lead or even a kit without much luck.
People keep thinking i have stepped out of some time machine and say that no one does that anymore.... It has got me worried that this might not be the best way.

What are your thoughts on lead loading and where can i get supplies to do this.

David


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:20 pm 
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Location: Sunny Shine Coast, Qld Australia
Basically it has been replaced with bog. Much easier to handle and get it in place than playing around with molten metal. It was a process a bit like melting solder and pouring it into a boxed up hole and when hard fileing it back - same technique with fibre glass and bog but more user friendly

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:21 pm 
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i was told when i did my panelvbeating course for year 12 that no one does it anymore because its too time consumuing and expencive if you screw it up, but i could be wron and there could be more to it

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:30 pm 
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my dad had a A40 that was full of lead. Lead loading is seen by some as a long lost art.
alot of the old hotrods were called lead sleds because of the weight


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:34 pm 
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did that to the e-type on the triple compund curves on the back at a car :shock: hard hot work but gives a better finish than bog as it can apply very thinly.

You need a butane or oxy torch, a stick of lead (you can buy them from rod shops) and spatula (it doesnt stick to the wood) and a leading file. You melt the lead on the body and spread it with the spatula. You keep heating the lead so it will flow until it looks correctish and then you file it back.

I have never seen it used to fill holes more to blend panel joins on curves.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:35 pm 
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There can be problems with it sticking if the metals not spotlessly clean (much the same as with bog/body filler though) and then there's also the fact you are filing and sanding a toxic metal . Not sure about bog dusts chemical inertnous once it's in your lungs either but lead is worse . Some still do it and get fantastic results , it's supposed to be more flexible than bog and expands/contracts at the same rate as the body steel but bog is preferred now for a variety of reasons (health and safety , weight , ease etc) .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:35 pm 
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Lead loading isn't as suspectable to rust compared to bog but it is a lot harder to apply hence why its not used anymore. Most crash repairers want cars in and out as fast as possible so they can get paid.

One important thing to remember is wear protection when handling the stuff as it is LEAD, a mask is a definate some people also use gloves and full body suits when filing it so it doesn't get all over them.

Heres a breif video on youtube of the process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZk9RR0aDjY

I've never heard of anyone filling holes with it though

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:26 pm 
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If you try hard enough you may find someone. One of the premier body shops in town still does (AFAIK) lead wiping (it is a lost art) if you really want it done. Of course it is only done by a couple of guys and you have to pay BIG $$$$$$ for it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:32 pm 
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I have seen screw holes filled with solder using a soldering iron (the old square irons that you heat over a flame) It went something like this....

Clean off the old paint with a rotary file (angle grinder)
Apply flux to panel
Heat the iron and apply solder to the tip of the iron
Poke iron with solder into the hole and give it a twist while you pull it out of the hole and the hole will fill with solder as you remove the iron.
Sand flat and paint!

If you had to fill the holes from a set of Innocenti flares this would be a good quick way to hide the holes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Bakers flux is a good product that has been around since Adam was a boy. It can be had from hardware shops, welding suppliers and blackwoods (amongst others).

Large amounts of lead can be bought from plumbing suppliers as sheet material (about a 30 cms square, maybe 3mm thick??), but also in sticks. The sheets would probably be the go for a job like this.

You can't have a clean enough surface, and don't be a miser on the flux.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:41 pm 
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We use it at work.

We use Silver solder. Made from mostly tin I think. Its good stuff. We just heat the panel up a little with the oxy then flux it. Then we just flow it on with a soldering iron. Its really easy to sand and can be removed simply by heating it up and it will just flow off. If I had an oxy I would have used it heaps on my build.

Stay away from lead though.

It kills ya :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:26 pm 
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mini-dunger wrote:
We use it at work.

We use Silver solder. Made from mostly tin I think. Its good stuff. We just heat the panel up a little with the oxy then flux it. Then we just flow it on with a soldering iron. Its really easy to sand and can be removed simply by heating it up and it will just flow off. If I had an oxy I would have used it heaps on my build.

Stay away from lead though.

It kills ya :lol:

No silver solder will melt at a low enough temp to use a soldering iron, what you are probably using there is 50/50 or 60/40 soft solder, or a lead free replacement one.
See here, all you need to know about solders....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:44 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
60/40 goes off at about 240 degrees C. Silver solder goes off at 600. I love silver soldering, but it's expensive and you probably wouldn't use it in the great amounts you would need here.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:52 pm 
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A few years ago I was visiting VG Auto Paints and they were selling sticks of "Unleaded" lead filler. :shock:
They were sticks that looked a bit like solder or lead but they were very light like plastic. They worked the same as lead but I have no idea what they were made from. Might be worth a call. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:16 pm 
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Did anyone mention that lead is actually poisonous and will not pass WH&S procedures!

It leads to the onset of mental desease and acute nervous disfunction - ask the Roman's, they used to line their pipes with it!!

Not to mention possible burns when it's heated to liquid form!

Just use bog!!

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