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Suspension Overhaul
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Author:  albino235 [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Suspension Overhaul

In the coming weeks I will be dropping the front and rear subframes and overhauling the suspension components. So that this is as efficient as possible I would like to have majority of parts here before I start.
So I need a shopping list :)

Can the experienced folk on here identify what should be replaced during such an overhaul?
I am guessing, all wheel bearings, new rubber cones, all new bushes, bump stops etc.. What else should I have in advance.

Also any advice for this process would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,
Alex

Author:  Mick [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

You might want to check the rear trailing arm bushes for one. The bushes and needle roller will wear out and cause the car to crab up the road.

Easy to spot, you remove the long pin and check the journals for wear. If they aren't worn, a decent greasing goes a long way.

Replacing the bushes is a little bit hard as you need a long drift and a decent hammer to drift them out.

The replacement kit comes with a bronze bush which goes in one end of the arm with a needle roller on the other end and this needs to be professionally reamed to fit the new pin. However, it is possible to replace the bronze bush with another needle roller the same as the other side and save yourself a lot of bother. This the setup the mokes had as well, two roller bearings, no bush.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:59 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mick wrote:
The replacement kit comes with a bronze bush which goes in one end of the arm with a needle roller on the other end and this needs to be professionally reamed to fit the new pin. However, it is possible to replace the bronze bush with another needle roller the same as the other side and save yourself a lot of bother. This the setup the mokes had as well, two roller bearings, no bush.

You would need to bore out the trailing arm outer end, the bush has a smaller OD than the bearing does. Bigwheel Moke arms are bigger bore there.

I find the best way to remove a bush is screw a 7/8 UNC or BSW tap well into it, then drift both out. :wink:

Author:  albino235 [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:57 pm ]
Post subject: 

hmm, here's to hoping I don't have to rebush the arms then...

Anyone got any suggestions as to bump stops, etc. or other things to look out for when I am doing it?
Any other tips or advice?
Any other jobs I should do while the subframes are out?

Author:  Hanra [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

albino235 wrote:
Any other jobs I should do while the subframes are out?


Reco your steering rack!!!!!

Author:  rampage101 [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

Unless your bump stop's look rooted, why change them? Have a feel of them, twist and pull etc, make sure there still one piece and I'd say they'd be right imho.

Author:  Morris 1100 [ Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

Change all the brake hoses.

Check the ball joints and tie-rod ends.

Author:  miniDave [ Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:06 am ]
Post subject: 

drmini in aust wrote:
I find the best way to remove a bush is screw a 7/8 UNC or BSW tap well into it, then drift both out. :wink:


I know I asked you this recently as well. If you tap in from the outside does it all not push it further enter the centre of the arm - or do you tap from the bearing end?
:?
thanks

Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:26 am ]
Post subject: 

miniDave wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I find the best way to remove a bush is screw a 7/8 UNC or BSW tap well into it, then drift both out. :wink:


I know I asked you this recently as well. If you tap in from the outside does it all not push it further enter the centre of the arm - or do you tap from the bearing end?
:?
thanks

The bush and bearing both go into a counterbore, they won't knock through. Bore is smaller in between them.
I pull the needle bearing out by MIG tack welding a bolt into it.

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