Ok ppls.

I bought myself a 4 pot KAD disk brake kit. i managed to build all the hubs ok but am stuck on the ball joints.


i'm following the haynes workshop manual. it tells me to place the shims on top of the lock washer but when i looked into the kit i only had a total of 6 shims (3 pairs). when i fit 3 shims into the top ball joint (no spring) and tighten the nut the ball stud is pretty much solid in movement. then i add the other 3 shims (6 in total) the ball stud is very notchy. is this because its new or is there something im doing wrong?

i'd post pictures but i can't get the pics out of my phone at the moment

Any help will be appreciated

wtf why are my T/H/E turning into teh?

It's a problem we're working through at the moment.

The new ball joint kits always seem to come with only a few shims, never enough. Try to save your old ones if you can find any amongst the old ball joints.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

but how should the ball joint feel when fully assembled??

cos im an apprentice the ball joints on the european cars i work on are tight when new but roll around smooth later.

does it flow smooth or a bit notchy?

When torqued up to 72 lb/ft, you should just be able to move it by hand. it will be a bit notchy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can lap them in with some valve grinding paste to make them a little smoother before adjusting them up if you like, or they will smooth up in use.
Make sure the socket and cup is nice and clean and adjust them up without any grease and also without the spring on the upper ball joint.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Isn't the spring on the lower??

when u say adjusting are you talking about getting the right amount of shims needed till the ball stud is difficult to move?

i would've thought that it needed to move

obviously im a mini newb

Yes....I hope you didnt throw out the old shims

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I forget....one or the other...ummm..

Still, leave it out anyway is the rule while adjusting shims, it upsets the amount of shims you will need by pushing the ball harder into the cup.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

nah the old drum and hubs are at home and the KAD kit arrived at my work.

all the mechanics crowded around as i opened the boxes. Like bugs to a bright light

Yep the spring is on the bottom one. Adjust it without, then fit the spring.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeh, not long ago went through all this, was a right ning nong, mainly becuase you have to torque every time!

The handle of my big ball pein came in handy, good leverage throught the hub against the torque wrench, shame the handle looks like crap now