Background

My clutch was dragging and it got to the stage where I had trouble putting the car into gear. I bled the clutch hydraulics. There was some air. Once bled, I could select gear, but there was a little bit of drag. Four weeks later the aforementioned situation happened again. I bed the clutch again, there was some air bubbles, however this time, once bled I could NOT select gear at all, even with the clutch pedal flat to the floor.

Check 1

Checked the clutch pedal clevis and pin. There is some slack, pehaps 1 inch worth of pedal travel.

Check 2

I clamped the hose between the clutch MC and the SC and pressed the pedal and it was rock hard, suggesting the MC and hose are ok, but the SC might not be functioning at 100%. (Thanks to Simon K for his help)

Check 3

I removed the clutch lever arm and checked the ball at the end. The ball is worn flat on one side, the contact side. This can be seen in the photos shown below. The contact surface is very highly polished.

My question

Is this wear on the clutch lever arm sufficient to cause the problem of severe clutch drag and trouble selecting gear or is it "within tolerances"?

Thanks in advance.

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --

It's well knackered, the cause of your problems- toss it and buy a new one.
Also check for wear in the plunger it goes into, if grooved go find another.

Grease it good on assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc - appreciate your help.

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --

that's probably close to what mine looks like....

does welding them up and grinding to a ball again work Kev?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

well you might be able to hardface it, but it's doubtful it will then last without the little arm bending as you will anneal it in the process.
I got one professionally TIG welded back together by Cigweld once, when the little arm bit broke right off, and it only survived 3 months.
Not worth the hassle IMO. New ones are not rare, or dear either.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not that one would argue with god but....

I would suggest the damage is not tooo bad. However, check out the release bearing shuttle. It also wears and the combination wear patterns can do strange things.

I have had symptoms such as those described - but found the ball had broken off the clutch arm completely.

I think I would be looking elsewhere for the problem as I don't think a simple arm replacement will solve your woes.

Cheers, Ian

Agree with Kev its goooooone, but here is why

http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/CLUTCH/DisplayType/Technical%20Information/DisplayID/153/ArticleV.cfm

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Hi Mick ... I appreciate the confirmation ... I read through that tip sheet on minimania ... its quite good and I think ... "only about 0.050'' of useful thrust bearing movement" ... puts things into perspective !

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --

But sometimes you have to understand what you're reading.....

The wear MC describes is between the clutch pedal and the the master cylinder push rod.

The wear shown in your photo is easilly adjusted out using the clutch adjuster bolt. When it gets much worse people resort to bent lever arms. What's the inside of the release bearing shuttle look like?

I just wouldn't want you to be too disappointed when the new lever doesn't do much (you have checked the adjuster bolt haven't you?).

Cheers, Ian

Often the plunger wears nearly as much as the ball does. The wear shown in your photo (if combined with a groove in the plunger) means the lever can run out of travel in the hole and will then jam in the plunger, before full movement is reached.
I had that problem once, and the ball wasn't worn as bad as yours (but it did bend the lever end).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This is true Kev, however, I've had a ball break off a lever - but the clutch still worked....

I still reckon if he races out and gets a new lever things won't be much better. The wear on the ball alone is not enough to cause the reported symptoms...

IMHO

Cheers, Ian

I don't like the way that he had problems so he bled the clutch and found air and when he bled it again later he got some more air.

I think this car has a couple of problems, some in the linkage and some in the hydraulics.

I'd say this car sucks there is something letting air in somewheres

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"Show me the Mini!"

Exactly what Gafmo's car did last week. It was sucking air past the slave cylinder cup seal. Cylinder only 12 months old... there's Quality . A new 7/8" cup fixed it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Will the clutch lever arm over extend because the ball is worn and if so will this damage the SC cup seal ?

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --