Two trailer related questions (please and thank you):

1. Anybody know how much the fitment of brakes would increase the weight of an otherwise identical single axle trailer?

2. How do tow dollies work as far as steering....I mean why don't they scrub the hell out of either their own tyres, or the rear tyres of the car? Or maybe they do?

Don't know the answer to the first one, but I would suggest going onto the website of the main axle supplier. They may have weights on there. I can't think of the name exactly, but it is something like Akzo.

The Tow-easi type dolly actually has a pivot/turntable mechanism so it's wheels turn with the tow vehicle. The car being towed has the wheelbase of itself to turn so it is not unlike just being driven (although I would imagine a higher level of resistence and minor scrubbing to possibly exist, much like being towed on the back of a tow truck anyhow)
KB

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I think it may be Alko. http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle/index.html

The difference in weight is only a couple of brake drums, backing plates and shoes. Plus they weld a mounting plate on the axle. About 20kg?

My old car trailer got new axles not long before I sold it. We got the axles made to length and had mounting plates fitted to both axles but only got electric brakes on one axle.
We also got cambered axles. They make the axle with a bend so you have positive camber when empty and around zero camber when fully loaded.

I could go over to my brothers place and weigh a brake assembly as we kept one old one as a spare and no longer have the trailer. (it would have to wait till the weekend to weigh it)

Thanks for the offer but I think I've found enough info on the weights (ie bugger all).

Still looking into the various options . I thought hydraulic was pretty much the only option for a private car but reading more and more about electric and also cable.

Electric brakes are the ducks guts. I would not use anything else. They are very adjustable for different loads and weather conditions as well as the ability to be able to apply them manually.

Agreed, electric are the best.

But you will find various mates will want to borrow your trailer who don't have the electric brake controller fitted. Hence why my car trailer still has hydraulic brakes at the moment, where I have converted the caravan to electric.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

That's what I was thinking about electric - not just being borrowed but me towing with various vehicles.

And if anybody is thinking about using electric brakes for a boat trailer- forget it.
Salt water does the mechanism no good at all...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As far as electric brakes go they are very good. There used to be an Eectric Bake Controller made that can be mounted on the A frame of the trailer instead of fitting it in the Tow vehicle. These were "OK" but a pain in the back side to adjust correctly to the weight being towed as you have to keep stopping and getting out of the car to get it right. Also, as these worked off the "Stop light" circuit you must be careful that the stop light circuit of the tow vehicle has a fuse rated at 20 Amps. Some Japanese cars only have a 10 amp fuse on the stop light circuit which will blow as soon as you add the electric brake load to the system. Up sizeing the fuse in these cars is not recommended either. Modifications are involved here so it is a better option to use an in Cab Control unit. One other thing I would like to point out,Even though you find many trailers still using this type of control unit mounted on the trailer A frame it is Illegal in some Sates for these units to be fitted to new trailers.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

OK, while I'm babbling: What do y'all think about an unsprung car transporter?

Before anyone gets all uppity (people tend to on this subject for some reason), yes I've driven one, yes it was fine empty, no the tyres didn't blow out because they were carrying the cars weight etc etc

If you think it's a bad idea that's cool I want to hear from you....but come with facts

I've towed a few cars on an unsprung trailer, with the car on there it's fine. But unladen they do leap from crag to crag on bad roads.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Wire all the vehicles up for the controller using a common plug, then simply move the controller between vehicles. Some controllers come with more than one bracket.

Or if that's too much hassle the controllers are cheap second-hand from wreckers or on eBay.

I usually remove the ash-tray and mounted the controller there with a custom bracket using the ash-tray screws and a common 4-pin plug. That way when we sell/trade the car in I can simply removed the controller, tuck the plug behind the dash somewhere and replaced the ash-tray. No ugly holes are left in the dash.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2