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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:24 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
I finally fished out the dizzy drive shaft from the gearbox with the help of a $2.50 magnety thing from Supercrap.

I refitted the drive one tooth around (as I was having trouble getting it started on the original setting - see earlier post). So now, when I have #1 at TDC the rotor points to around 10 oclock. I have set the dizzy body so that the rotor is pointing to one of the leads and I have connected that to No1 and then 3,4,2.

Trouble is no matter how I move it back or forwards it won't start! I get some popping but no attempt to start. I have even tried turning the drive dog 180 but no difference :( I have to confess that I don't understand the docs comment in the How to thread that "the key part on the driveshaft is below centre" Does this refer to the two lugs on the drive dog or the centre bit with the slot in it?

Could the coil be stuffed! It is the one I got with the dizzy from the wreckers. Is there any way I can test it?

I really need some help here folks - it is driving me crazy :evil:

Cheers

Rick


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:36 pm 
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arpy69 wrote:
I finally fished out the dizzy drive shaft from the gearbox with the help of a $2.50 magnety thing from Supercrap.

I refitted the drive one tooth around (as I was having trouble getting it started on the original setting - see earlier post). So now, when I have #1 at TDC the rotor points to around 10 oclock. I have set the dizzy body so that the rotor is pointing to one of the leads and I have connected that to No1 and then 3,4,2.

Trouble is no matter how I move it back or forwards it won't start! I get some popping but no attempt to start. I have even tried turning the drive dog 180 but no difference :( I have to confess that I don't understand the docs comment in the How to thread that "the key part on the driveshaft is below centre" Does this refer to the two lugs on the drive dog or the centre bit with the slot in it?
Could the coil be stuffed! It is the one I got with the dizzy from the wreckers. Is there any way I can test it?

I really need some help here folks - it is driving me crazy :evil:

Cheers

Rick

When you look at the slot on the dizzy driveshaft (wot U dropped :lol: ) at TDC firing on #1 cylinder, the slot is at an angle to horizontal but below centre. The rotor should be pointing around 1 o'clock when fitted in. If it's pointing to 7 o'clock the drive dog is on arse about.

Firing point is approximately when the peaks on the 4 cornered thingy pass the metal strip on the baseplate. Set like that and then advanced (turn dizzy clockwise) a few degrees, it should start. You will need a strobe timing light to set timing properly....
Remember, firing order is 1-3-4-2 turning anti-clockwise.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:44 pm 
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Thanks again Doc, I will give it another go.

Cheers

Rick


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:55 pm 
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This might sound silly...
but could the popping sound be the spark occuring when there is nothing but air in the cylinder... ie the spark is occuring at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of at the top of the compression stroke?

then again... i know squat about engines... so i could be completly wrong :roll:

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Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:08 pm 
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arpy69 wrote:
Thorlek, Hagar and Kev if you were here I would kiss you all....in a platonic non-homosexual kind of way...... :shock:

Heh... i now officially know squat+1 about engines 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:53 pm 
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Thorlek wrote:
This might sound silly...
but could the popping sound be the spark occuring when there is nothing but air in the cylinder... ie the spark is occuring at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of at the top of the compression stroke?

then again... i know squat about engines... so i could be completly wrong :roll:


I thought that too. Several times before I've managed to be on the exhaust stroke when trying to set up dizzys.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:59 pm 
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check the rockers- at TDC firing #1 cylinder, #4 cylinder has the 2 valves rocking- exhaust closing and inlet opening. Both these rockers tight when you grab them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 10:43 pm 
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You beauty :D :D :D

Thorlek, Hagar and Kev if you were here I would kiss you all....in a platonic non-homosexual kind of way...... :shock:

H.Hmm anyway, it started. I had been setting No1 on the rock with No 4 tight, i.e. not moving. Obviuosly had the whole thing arse-about-face.

Funny thing is, if I had understood this from the start I probably wouldn't have had to remove the drive shaft which I then dropped in the guts :oops: Hah, you live and learn.

Anyway, now that I know it runs, I will spend Sunday setting it up and tuning it properly, strobe and all.

Thanks again guys. Where would we be without Ausmini.

Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:01 am 
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Really stupid question, but which cylinder is no. 1?

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:14 am 
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Front one.

Since our engines are the sideways, the front is the end with the fan.

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1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:20 am 
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Well at least I am doing something right.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...


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