I had a little problem with changing gears when driving flat out from 1st to 2nd and then 3rd to 4th lots of crunching and it had done this from the day it was rebuilt.
I did use new baulk rings but i was only 15 at the time and i don't remember if i checked there clearance on the cone,But when i removed the gear box to repair the fault i found over 1mm gap between the baulk ring and the other bit what ever its called.
So the question i have is what maybe causing this problem?

It is supposed to be 1mm gap there, if no gap you have no synchro action at all.
There are other things cause crunching- worn synchro outer sleeve, or soft springs in the hub (my bet).
If these springs are too weak, there is insufficent rotation torque transmitted to the baulk ring during initial engagement to allow it to be blocked by the outer sleeve. So, it crunches...
When I build boxes now I use new springs, or hand selected s/h ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have just put new springs in my hubs - interesting thing is the new ones area lot shorter than the old ones but a lot thicker and stiffer

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Thanks again for your help i removed the springs and found some of them were broken.