| ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/ |
|
| Painting and Clear Coat https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=41389 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | rogg [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Painting and Clear Coat |
Hey Guys, I've just painted the moke. Layed about 3L (not inc thinnners) in about 6 coats of colour. Its acrylic paint, looks alright at the moment. Now to get the best finsih, should I wet sand with 1200-1500 then clear coat? Or just Clear straight over the top? Then what steps to I need to take to finsh off the paint? Wet Sand 1500, then buff? What should I be using to buff? Cheers |
|
| Author: | lilmatti_69 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey i don't know what to do before applying clear coat but i went straight over the paint with the clear coat without wet sanding it, it looks great i reckon. Are you doing a home job? if you are then you might get little dirt particles stuck on the clearcoat like i did, i was told by a guy on this forum that you should wetsand with 2500 grit sandpaper with a block and alot of clean soapy water. After that is done you need to use a cut and polish to buff the paint back to its shine, i was recommended to use Autoglym bodyshop fine abrasive, which is specially made "for elimination of wet and dry sanding marks." It costs around $40 for a 1L bottle. Then you can use a quality hand polish. I am yet to do this to my car but will get around to doing it in around a month or two. Good luck. |
|
| Author: | rogg [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yep. Home job. I have clear here at home ready to go. Just want to know the best way to achieve the best results before I sand or just spray it. I should be right with dust, fairly clean working area (after I clean up the overspray from the colour last week dam it makes a mess). I'll lay fresh plastic drop sheets and it will be as clean as it can be. |
|
| Author: | Goldbrocade_62 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Acrylic clear doesn't go on much shinier and will still need buffing,but it is a waste off time on solid colours as it can end up yellow tinge |
|
| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Clear coat is the work of the devil. |
|
| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I painted my Fiat 124 Sport years ago in Fiat Medium Blue Metallic, and after we put the clear on it the paint finish looked about a foot deep. 
Sadly a few years later the clear had all oxidised and gone crappy. 
I've been told that acrylic clear is a waste of time too, with solid colours. |
|
| Author: | rogg [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Has anyone had good experiences with Clear? I've already got 4L of the stuff at home... I'll be storing the car with a cover on it while not in use... So It wont be out in the elements all the time. I'm assuming that The sun makes it yellow. |
|
| Author: | stuart17 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the colour is a metallic or a pearl it will need clear . these days clear contains uv stabliser, and is made of the same resins as solid colours. if the base has been dry for a while you will have to sand it before applying clear. use a 3M superfine sanding sponge, its easier than wet and dry. use with soapy water. |
|
| Author: | rogg [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 8:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I only sprayed last sunday nite... is that too long? Or should I just spray clear? |
|
| Author: | Goldbrocade_62 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Will need to be rerubbed before clear goes on if solid colour put clear on the shelf and leave it there,you may be unhappy that you bought clear in the short term but in the long term paint will last longer just rub with 1200 if needed and polish be carefull lots off sharp corners |
|
| Author: | MUNKEY [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
dont clear it if its a soild colour with 6 coats of paint there is heaps there and it will buff up good without clear just watch the edges id leave it a few days but i buffed mine within hours of painting it. my coulor went on flat so i didnt rub it back the compound i used was just the cheap green crap it worked well with plenty of water, i then ran over it with meguires polish with the buff then meguires wax by hand, i used the meguire hand applicators for the polish n wax and a foam buff pad, this is the way i done them for 5yrs while detailing here is my mini i done last week, its soild green no clear just buffed 
and my mates moke i painted last year, soild coulour, no clear, not rubbed back just buffed. 
|
|
| Author: | Goldbrocade_62 [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If i was doing job I would let it sit to harden and lt all solvents to escape minimum week and certainly not after a couple hours |
|
| Author: | MUNKEY [ Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yep, the longer you can leave it the better because the paint still has to sink back. its pretty soft when its freash so i find it easy to knock the top off and flatten it out. |
|
| Author: | rogg [ Fri May 23, 2008 5:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I finshed the colour over a week ago. Just went and cleaned it down about to put some clear on and now some parts look like this... Looks like there are water marks in the paint and its discoloured. How can I get this out before I clear it? Or will I have to paint colour over it again? I have no idea what has happened, all I did was wash it with wax and grease remover. 
|
|
| Author: | simon k [ Fri May 23, 2008 11:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
rogg wrote: I have no idea what has happened, all I did was wash it with wax and grease remover. nasty..... wax and grease remover is a type of thinners/prepsol isn't it? if so, it's dissolved your paint.... |
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC + 10 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|