mk1 mini. Turn the iginition to on sometimes the light comes on sometimes not unless I jiggle the key a little. Turn it over the engine starts and then sometimes instantly dies or the ign light doesn't go out till I give it a little rev. Sometimes (more when its cold) if I put the brakes on soon after start it kills it unless I manage to get my foot off real quick.

Took out the switch panel nothing obvoius. Only happens now and again?

Going to get auto electrician to check it, but guessing its the barrel or ignition switch just thought someone may have had similar issue?

thanks, mike

There sounds like three problems there, maybe only two of which are eactually somthing to worry too much about.

The ignition barrel contacts sound like they may be worn out. They are not really economically repairable, but are relatively cheap to replace.

The ignition light staying on until the throttle is blipped can be caused by a few things. Mostly, the alternator/generator is waiting for the generated voltage to rise higher than the battery before it kicks itself in. How low is your idle? Generally around 800 rpm and up it should kick in. Generators can be a little more stubborn but as long as the light goes out every time it is a good thing..

The brake pedal stalling the engine may be a couple of things as well. A short may be developing so that when you depress the brake pedal it shorts the 12 volts and kills the ignition momentarily.
A vacuum brake booster may also cause problems if you have one fitted.

So...what is your idle rpm, are the brake lights functioning normally, what is the battery voltage with the engine stopped and also running, and do you have a brake booster?

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

idle rpm is above 800 usually around 1000 sometimes dips when coming to a stop. No vacuum, no brake booster, brake lights function normal, when at night the lights stayed on and didn't dull when engine cut, alternator not generator, don't know battery voltage (no gauge).

Light goes out everytime and only sometimes stays on from cold start, also tacho shows no revs until light out.

Guessing its ignition switch/barrel as sometimes there is no light on ign unless I turn it off and back on. Little bit of looseness in key. Can sort of half turn it and light may go on or off before turning over.

To check if its the ignition barrel contacts I guess I have to take the ignition barrel out of the switch? How does the barrel come out for the switch part? What should I look for?

thanks,
mike

Not that anyone cares

It was ignition switch. New switch old barrel = fixed.

Awwwww !!! We cared but you had the answer and no one had any useful to add. Ignition switches on any old car become a problem.

Your next problem will be the high beam low beam switch. They were never designed to take the current they do and the begin to arc over time and failure is enevitable. They are also fairly expensive.

So - get a set of good relays fitted to your lights so the switch is exactly that - a switch and not carrying the heavy current load. Awfully embarrassing when the lights fail totally some dark wet night and it can burn out the wiring.

Mike

Awesome, I can wait for that! It's dark and wet right now, time for a drive ha. Thanks.