well I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on my clubman van rebuild.

I have finished the bare metal strip down and have dropped the shell, doors and bonnet off at the panel beaters to get the holey bits welded up and the fan sprayed.
I am now looking through my boxes of bits and working out what to replace

My suspension questions are:
1. My rear suspension cone and metal strut are not joined together. Are they meant to be joined by a bolt? I think so but just checking.

2. The alloy strut seems to have been chopped at one point and to get it up to a semi legal height washers are between this and the knuckle. This seems dodgy on a high scale. Should I just replace the struts? If so adjustable would be a wise move?

My other question is what to replace on the car while it is apart.
I am planning on replacing the brake lines ( metal and rubber), fuel lines and all the grommets I can get my hands on. I have seen a brakeline kit on the internet but it seems a bit excessive at 250. Has anyone got a brake shop to do this for them? If so how much? It should be easy enough to get the pipes and attachments and make my own. My mum has the flarer and pipe cutter ( don't ask )

David

1. no.

2. just go straight for adjustable cones. although washers are used fairly commonly to raise height.

3. As well as the brake lines/ hoses replace the subframe bushes and your knuckles at the end of the struts - They're cheap. also while you're messing around down there you might as well do brake pads, brake cylinders and check and regrease wheel bearings.
If you take the old pipes into a brake shop they will make up new ones for you. easier than flaring them yourself.

Hope this helps.

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

2. Washers were a factory item. They even have part numbers (Washer special .100" = AYK2447, .080" = 21A463)

it is a bit excessive..

I had some lines made recently, and they charged me $7.50 per meter for the line, $3 for a flare, and $3 for a flare nut.... it doesn't take long to add up, but shouldn't be more than $130-$150 for the whole car (based on a rough estimation of lengths etc.)

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I got a single/double flaring tool off ebay for 35 bucks. I haven't used it yet but will make my own pipes once I get some 3/16th bundy tube from enzed.

I figure that by the time I have made all the lines on the mini, as well as reflared a new pair of hydrolastic pipes it will have paid for itself, and I have a new string to my bow...that's how I see the world anyhow...you may not want the trouble..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

You may not have the same trouble as I did but I got one of those flaring tools also and after making a very messy first flare (lucky it was a practice go on a cut off piece of pipe.) the threads in the flaring bar that hold the pipe in place were completely stuffed!

I just bend up and cut my own pipe now and take it to the brake shop for flaring and ends.

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

The cheapo chinese/taiwanese flare tools are crap, it's getting more difficult to find real quality tools these days.
Unless it's a decent one I'd let the brake shop flare the ends, as it's your arse if they leak or crack.

Flare some scrap pipe first, then take a good look at it through a magnifying glass.. make sure it's good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So the strut and the rubber cone are not joined by a bolt?
I swear I have seen that before and think they are even threaded.




Thanks a whole heap for the advice.
I will pop into a brakes place when I am in gippsland next ( where the car is) and get them made up local.

Another thing/s

The fuel line overflow pipe piece attaches to a fuel line but it is crimped at one end. Is this the norm? Seems like a waste to me.

Is fuel and brake line the same?

Cheers and thanks again Ausmini crew. I don't get to read through here as often as I would like (when i do I lurk a bit). I always get lots of answers when I ask a questions though and it is super helpful so THANKS.

The cones are threaded, but that's to allow a cone compressor to be attached for installation and removal in the front end. There's no need for the cone to be bolted to the strut, once they're installed they can't go anywhere.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

where's the overflow pipe? if it's the one that comes out of the to of the carb float bowl, it's really just a breather, and would normally go into a charcoal cannister - if originally fitted.... if it's sealed, the air in the bowl can't escape as it fills with fuel and you might find the car runs funny



nup, brake line is much smaller in diameter - I think it's the same material tho



aww shucks, it's nice when people ask sensible questions, and say thanks afterwards

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

nah it runs from the fuel tank (van) runs back down under the car under the covers that are under here.It attaches to the threaded piece in the filler neck if I remember correctly. I would go have a look but its an hour and a half drive

ohhh, my bad, see, I don't know about late clubmans.... that tank breather would've gone into the charcoal cannister too - maybe

The fuel tank does need to breathe, we don't (shouldn't) have vented fuel filler caps, and if the breather is blocked then as the fuel is taken out of the tank, it'll create a vacuum in the tank and could cause the pump to not suck any fuel though, and it'll seem like you've run out of fuel. Letting the car sit for a few minutes, the tank de-vacuums, and then you can start off again, till the it vacuums again

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Hey Simon,
Thanks.
I will just get it made. Its only about a metre long so no biggy and If I don't need it I will bin it.


I should post some pics of the bare metal strip down but you have all seen it before I guess.

Ohh... For subframe parts would you powdercoat or just use chassis paint?
David

I vote chassis paint - powdercoat will chip, and you can't touch it up like you can if it's painted

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?