Hi Guys,
I have recently pulled my 998cc engine out and have it sitting in the garage, my plan is to clean it all and possibly paint it so that it is ready for me to race at my local hillclimb track, but i have encounted a few problems along the way.

I would like to take the clutch cover off so i can clean it throughly but i am not sure if any oil will drip out and dirty everything or whether any components might fly out, so can anyone help me.
I also unscrewed the drive flanges near the transmission and found that oil started to drip out so i put them back but i would like to know if that oil is the oil from the gearbox (engine oil).
I would also like to know how simple is it to remove the cyclinder head and whether i have to drain the oil, also what components do i have to be cautious of when removing it, will anything fall off, what steps must i follow.
My last question, what would be the best oil to use for the engine seeing as i am going to race it at my local hillclimb track.

Cheers
Sav

_________________
73 Clubman - Working Progress

with removing the cylinder head your going to have to remove each bolt off in order... do you have a manual, they come in handy!! and yeah your going to have to drain the oil, unless you really want an oil bath.

if your goin to race why dont you bore it out and increase some power...

leighton

_________________
1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Hey thanks for the tip leighton,
What would be the best way to bore it out.

Cheers
Sav

_________________
73 Clubman - Working Progress

clutch cover will come off no worries - nothing to fly out and wont make a mess with oil. There is a seal in behind the flywheel - around the gear this is what keeps the oil in.

The head again is a no problem job just pull rocker cover off and undo the 10 (i think) botls/nuts and the hose at the rear that goes from block to head and the thermostat housing and it should pop off (may need a bit of persuation to separate the headgasket). No oil wil go everywhere.
If you remove the push rods (those rods at the rear of the motor that rockers are operated by - these may drip oil as they sit in oil). ONly mess removing head will be radiator liquid going everywhere. so should drain it before you start.

Dont know much about the drive flanges - havnt had to do anything with mine. But i dont think oil should be coming out. But i dont know. Somebody else should be able to comment on this

if i have left something out somebody will correct me

Cheers Brenton

_________________

Sav , you really need to get yourself a workshop manual and work through with it , mini's are pretty easy to start with and a manual will make it easier .

Clutch cover , yes you can take it off without oil leaking , there is a seal behind the flywheel that keeps the oil in the engine/gearbox and you won't disturb it unless you remove the flywheel and clutch then the housing . Nothing else will fall out of the clutch housing with the cover removed .

The oil from the drive flanges (diff output shafts) is the engine/gearbox oil , the engine , gearbox and diff all share the same oil and wherever you open anything other than the clutch housing cover lower than a couple of inches or so below the gearbox/engine join it will leak . now that you've taken the drive flanges out and put them back in with the old seals there's a good chance they'll leak as they are normally a single use only thing . It's easier to replace them on the garage floor than it is in the car so you might as well do them now , you'll have to drain the oil to do it of course .

Cylinder head is prety simple but rather than describe it here I'll say get a manual and follow it .

Someone else can answer the oil question but generally avoid any "friction modified" oils .

_________________

you have to send it out to a local workshop.... they basically get the block and drill the cylinders out so they are bigger therefore icreasing the capacity. the manual tells you what is the max size you can bore out.

also with the 998 im pretty sure they have the same block, head etc as an 1100, the 1100 just has a longer stroke therefore a larger crank and con rods, so if im right you could almost get a good 1200 out of your 998. just need to pick up an 1100 engine and bore.

leighton

_________________
1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Thanks guys for the information its all very useful, i guess i'm going to have to buy a manual.
With the drive flanges, i also noticed that one side has been badly worn out near the bolt holes, why is this.

Cheers
Sav

_________________
73 Clubman - Working Progress

I'm guessing you are using rubber uni joints (rubber and steel X's held in by U bolts) ? These wear and start to separate allowing the yoke to hit the gearbox or grind on themselves . If the damage is new then replace the rubber uni , if it looks old (like it had been replaced already) then check the uni anyway and make sure it hasn't got too much movement .

_________________

try this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-1959-1978-C ... dZViewItem

havent used this manual but it says its got your car covered.

_________________
1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

That one's probably pretty good but will miss some of the specifically Australian stuff like doors/windows/hinges etc . Not a big deal but worth remembering .

This one is for the Australian mini's and is excellent ,

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LEYLAND-MINI-WOR ... dZViewItem

_________________

One little point that we all know about and are glad to pass on to any-one having a go at an engine......before you remove the push rods, give tham a twist between your first finger and thumb to 'disconnect' them from the lifters. Over time, these two things join together with muck and oil and to get the lifters back in, you will have to take off the two covers at the rear of the engine. And you may not have the gaskets for them (the two covers).

Hooroo

_________________
Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Thanks everyone for the help, i managed to remove the clutch cover today and gave it a good clean, i also noticed it is badly marked and was wondering what colour paint i would need to restore it to original look.
I haven't tackled the cyclinder head yet but might later.
Also thanks for the manual links.

Cheers
Sav

_________________
73 Clubman - Working Progress

And Sav, if you are going to hillclimb competitively, then use a quality motor oil. Its true when they say its the life-blood of your engine.

If you are going to fully rebuild your engine, you can go to a fully synthetic motor oil. I use Motul - and I reckon its the best motor oil in the world.

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Thanks for the help, but where can i get this oil from and if i can't get it what else would you recommend.
I don't know if i'm going to rebuild the whole engine yet, i just want to clean it and possibliy replace a few parts, at the end of the year i might pull it to bits.

Cheers
Sav

_________________
73 Clubman - Working Progress

http://www.motul.com.au/main.html

Then go to disributors and have a look under Victoria....

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"