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 Post subject: steering rack
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:29 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Mildura
Just a question about reconditioning steering.
how do you remove base bearing cup in housing cannot knock out from rear.
also i need to replace bush on outer end.
from trusty morris workshop manual it says release the locking indetations of the lock washer.
anyone know what with eg pin punch screwdriver?
and it doesnt explain how to reassemble said item.
any specific proceedures would be appreciated
Steering rack in question
ball joints and rack and pinion shaft still apear to be in good order.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:42 pm 
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I undo them with a new pair of pipe wrenches. Grind a slight flat on each for better grip if you need to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: steering rack
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:09 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
niffty64 wrote:
from trusty morris workshop manual it says release the locking indetations of the lock washer.
anyone know what with eg pin punch screwdriver?


the couple I've done, I drilled out the part that's punched in

niffty64 wrote:
and it doesnt explain how to reassemble said item.


it's like a ball joint - do it up tight so that it takes a bit of a push to move the arm, then do up lock ring and punch it. If the lock ring is rooted, you can buy them for about $11

make sure you replace the wave washers (the 2 convex washers that sit face to face - sitting on the smaller of the 2 plates in your photo, to the left)

I made a "special tool" for getting out the sleeve that the felt bush sits in - the sleeve isn't used any more, assuming you're fitting one of the replacement plastic/nolathane bushes. The special tool is a washer that is the a bit smaller than the bore of the rack, I ground a notch in it, and it slips inside the sleeve (hence the notch - it goes in sideways) then I drop a bolt through the hole in the washer, put a nut on it, and then hold the nut with something, and pull the sleeve out - if that explanation makes any sense at all!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:00 am 
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848cc
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all makes sense to me.
the bearing cup at the base of the pinoion shaft any ideas how to get it out.
can you ring weld cup to shink out without damaging alloy housing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:53 am 
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I would heat the alloy housing up with a hot air gun, it should drop out then due to differential expansion.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:25 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
niffty64 wrote:
all makes sense to me.
the bearing cup at the base of the pinoion shaft any ideas how to get it out.
can you ring weld cup to shink out without damaging alloy housing


I think it's rare that you need to replace those bearings... they don't wear out do they Kev?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:20 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
They do get pitted with old age if the lube has gone away... but it's rare.
In my last 3 racks these bearings were fine... :D

ALWAYS replace the 2 little Belleville (tapered) washers, they fatigue with age and if they break, the rack is loose as... :x

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:19 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:24 pm
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Location: Mildura
I think it's rare that you need to replace those bearings... they don't wear out do they Kev?[/quote]

dont know about the condition of bearing cup.
but if i can replace it while i have time I will do.
will try heating alloy housing can get a heat gun thanks kev.
Should have thought of that being alloy will expand easily :oops:


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