your doing all the head work yourself! good luck! take it slow... a good cam some extractors, bigger carb etc.... maybe bore the block? endless choices....
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| engine modification??? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44747 |
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| Author: | Leighton [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | engine modification??? |
hi im in need for some advice. i have around $1000-2000 i have a 998 im going to make it a 1100 through the crank etc. however i want a bit more power, torque, speed etc from my engine. i can do all the head work at school. and i wil be doing most of the work myself. anybody have any suggestions?? cheers leighton |
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| Author: | mattsmadmini [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:40 pm ] |
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your doing all the head work yourself! good luck! take it slow... a good cam some extractors, bigger carb etc.... maybe bore the block? endless choices....
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| Author: | Leighton [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
im pretty sure we have the facilities to do most head work.... ive got extractors and sports exhaust, and eventually ill buy some twin hs2's and ill try and find a nice cam... any other ideas ??? thanks |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My tip would be to get a HS4 or HS6 (or HIF44) instead of the twin HS2s. |
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| Author: | Leighton [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:58 pm ] |
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why is that??? |
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| Author: | mattsmadmini [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 6:59 pm ] |
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depends on how far you want to go mate, could bore it out and make it a bit bigger get some nice GR pistons to boot, perhaps a different ratio diff (better acceleration/less top speed... depending on which way you go) some roller rockers or start getting some parts for a turbo'd engine 
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| Author: | mattsmadmini [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:01 pm ] |
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Morris 1100 wrote: My tip would be to get a HS4 or HS6 (or HIF44) instead of the twin HS2s.
ditto... less hassle HS6 or HIF44 have around the air volume a little more torque in a big single carb too
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| Author: | Leighton [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:01 pm ] |
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well turbos are out of the question because of new p plate laws. diff and rockers would be expensive wouldnt they??? |
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| Author: | Leighton [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i have a HS4 at the moment.... |
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| Author: | simon k [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
buy a copy of Vizard's "Tuning BL's A series Engine" - invaluable source of information and techniques |
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| Author: | jasonf [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
simon k wrote: buy a copy of Vizard's "Tuning BL's A series Engine" - invaluable source of information and techniques
And save up a bit more....
Not only do you need to change the crank to from 998 to 1098, but also the pistons....so bores just honed or bored out to next size, add the cam (RE13 of course to go with the GR flat top pistons ) new cam followers, valves and springs, bearings all round, new double row, you may as well say a full rebuild, if you do all you can, do all the head work and even the block work, plus all the reassembly you will still be looking over the 2k mark id say.....im doing most of that now...and it adds up really fast 
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| Author: | gafmo [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
jasonf wrote: simon k wrote: buy a copy of Vizard's "Tuning BL's A series Engine" - invaluable source of information and techniques And save up a bit more.... Not only do you need to change the crank to from 998 to 1098, but also the pistons....so bores just honed or bored out to next size, add the cam (RE13 of course to go with the GR flat top pistons ) new cam followers, valves and springs, bearings all round, new double row, you may as well say a full rebuild, if you do all you can, do all the head work and even the block work, plus all the reassembly you will still be looking over the 2k mark id say.....im doing most of that now...and it adds up really fast I would do this also
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| Author: | simon k [ Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:40 pm ] |
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jasonf wrote: you will still be looking over the 2k mark id say.....im doing most of that now...and it adds up really fast
this is true... I did my 1275 earlier this year, cost me about $1800 (total was about $2400 including gearbox bits), and I didn't touch the head or carbs - and of that cost, the machining was just $350 fark... that couldn't be true.... but I don't want to check the receipts just in case it is 
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| Author: | david rosenthal [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:43 am ] |
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I have just finished rebuilding a 1275/gearbox and doing all the machining and work myself it still cost around 2 Ks just for all the parts. When you decide to do your eng. allow for rebuild things like radiator,starter,alt. distriutor and all the little bolt on bits that mysteriously do not work after you start to do up the main bits. |
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| Author: | Wombat [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
All of the above - get the Doc to make a set of 1.3 off set rockers for you. lighten the flywheel - not to much just the recommended safe amount per Vizard. and balance the crank,flywheel and the harmonic balancer which you would have already had rebonded by Tuffbond. Electronic dizzy and 3.44 diff into 10" wheels |
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