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| Engine Block Removal https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44933 |
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| Author: | sausage27 [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Engine Block Removal |
Hey Guys, For the last month or so, i have been working on my engine, it is a 998cc. I have recently removed the cylinder head, i have drained the motor oil and cleaned the outside of it. I am now hoping to replace the piston rings because it used to blow a bit of smoke but i am not able to reach them because i can't remove the engine block. Can anyone possibly help me. Cheers Sav |
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| Author: | Mick [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:59 pm ] |
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If it's not already, it will need to be out of the car (1.5 hours) and then the clutch and other externals removed (another hour) Then the engine will lift off the gearbox after undoing a couple of dozen bolts between the engine and the gearbox. It sounds like you might need a gregorys manual. It will tell you in the first line that the engine will need to come out. Only then can you fiddle with the rings.. |
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| Author: | sausage27 [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the help Mick, But do i have to remove whole clutch unit or can i just unscrew the screws connecting to the engine block. I have unsrewed the bolts connecting from the engine block to the sump and i figured that i only needed to unsrew the bolts just connecting the engine block the the clutch unit, though it obviously doesn't come apart. Cheers Sav |
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| Author: | Mick [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:08 pm ] |
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No the whole unit needs to be taken apart. the crank passes through the primary gear cover and into the clutch housing. There the flywheel and clutch all cling onto the crank. Therefore this all needs to be unbolted to remove the housings and then the gearbox. There's no two ways about it. But it's not that bad if you are prepared and wade straight in. |
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| Author: | sausage27 [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:16 pm ] |
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Ok, thanks for the help, i'll work on it tomorrow. Cheers Sav |
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| Author: | DOZ [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:20 pm ] |
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| Author: | albino235 [ Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:10 pm ] |
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Mate, definitely look at a manual before attempting to re-ring the engine, also make sure everything is incredibly clean whilst rebuilding any dirt will ruin your new rings... To get to the rings the engine has to be almost completely apart, in that you need to separate the connecting rod big ends and lift the pistons out the top of the bores. You will also need a (near) complete engine gasket set and of course new rings. But of course when you go to all the trouble of taking the whole thing apart you may as well just have it bored and honed, bigger flat top pistons, regrind the crank, replace the bearings, and the list goes on. In short its not an easy feat work out how long you think it will take you and times that by ten... Oh and get someone who has done it before to help you out or offer some guidance |
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| Author: | miniron [ Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:40 pm ] |
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You will also need a few special tools such as a flywheel puller and a 1 1/2" AF socket or ring spanner to undo the flywheel bolt. There is online somewhere a pdf file of the Haynes manual. Its for UK cars but pulling the engine apart is basically the same for all Minis. No I don't have the URL for the manual but Google is your friend. RonR |
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| Author: | peterw [ Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's my experience that if a Mini engine has worn rings it most likely has a worn bore and could need reboring. You should also renew the bearings as they tend to have a short life once they have been disturbed. If you want the car to be reliable and have a decent lifespan it would be worth taking the crank, rods, block and pistons to a machine shop and have them properly measured (unless you have the gear and knowledge to do this). This will tell you exactly what needs to be done to get into top condition. Pete |
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| Author: | sausage27 [ Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:42 am ] |
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thanks everyone for you help, i have removed the engine block from the sump, but i'm having trouble unsrewing the conrods. Also what would be the best way to clean all these parts. Cheers Sav |
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| Author: | simon k [ Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:46 pm ] |
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sausage27 wrote: Also what would be the best way to clean all these parts.
the machine shop's hot dip tank |
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| Author: | peterw [ Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:16 pm ] |
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Assuming you have been able to remove the nuts from the rod bolts, the big end of the rod should split in half. They often just stick together as they are a machined fit. You might try a light tap with a mallet or the handle of a hammer. The pistons should come out the top of the block. I always clean the parts with degreaser and a brush but I agree the best way is the hot tank. Pete |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 19, 2008 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Keep the rod caps together with their right rod, if not marked do it now! 
Light centre pops on one side are OK.... 
and watch which way round they go..... the bearing shell notches on rod and cap are always adjacent. |
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| Author: | albino235 [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:45 am ] |
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Quote: Keep the rod caps together with their right rod, if not marked do it now! Laughing
Light centre pops on one side are OK.... Wink and watch which way round they go..... the bearing shell notches on rod and cap are always adjacent. Definately mark them, if they are already marked there should be dots from a pin punch on both the cap and rod (1 for one, 2 for two, etc) Also if you are reusing things, like pistons, bearings, thrusts, etc. It is always best to put them back where they came from. Note the pistons should definitely go back in their right bore. Number them on the pin boss before removal. |
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| Author: | Mick [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:50 am ] |
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Sounds like you're rebuilding you engine the same way I did with my first mini. Using the discovery method
The next one will be much easier I guarantee! |
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