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Brake master cylinders
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=45061		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Kennomini [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Brake master cylinders
I have a few types and I was wondering if any are better that the others?
I had the one in the tray on the car but the bias started leaking so I was wanting to use the tin (bottom of pic) type, because I think it will take up the least amount of space :? what are your opinions?
Image
Also if I use the tin type I will have to install a rear subframe mounted bias, I've seen and heard that they can be modified with a bolt in the back of them and a ball bearing to make them manually adjustable....good idea or not? (I wont be moding it myself I'll just buy one that's already done)
Author:  the vanman [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
the best one is the one in the pan on the left it has a line for front and back like all the new cars have.
Author:  albino235 [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thats the "twin circuit" design, in theory it should be safer by having two isolated circuits but I have heard from previous threads that in practice this is not necessarily the case...
Author:  albino235 [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Also I'll take one of those tin tank ones off your hands :lol:
Author:  Kennomini [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
The problem with the "twin circuit" set up is the bias is leaking and they can not be rebuilt :x
Author:  feralsprint [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
you can have new lines made and leave the leaking unit out, it really only works as a way of having the brake failure light set up with a pressure shuttle type piston set up that triggers if one side looses pressure, not really good for anything except leaking and making more connections
Author:  Anto [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
feralsprint wrote:
you can have new lines made and leave the leaking unit out, it really only works as a way of having the brake failure light set up with a pressure shuttle type piston set up that triggers if one side looses pressure, not really good for anything except leaking and making more connections


It also limits pressure to the back, does it not? If you remove it, I would fit the earlier type brake bias valve to the rear subframe - these are still available new.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
That `FAM' valve in there is a rear bias or limiting valve, not a brake failure indicator. The rear subby had a tee not a limit valve.
Best to toss it, and fit a new rear valve instead. You can still buy these new.
As said the whole tandem MC idea was to meet ADRs, I have seen how these Mini ones don't really work.. if you don't believe me go open a rear bleed nipple and see how much pedal you get then. :lol:
Author:  John Smidt [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mini king Australia have reconditioned bias valves $150.00 exchange, If this is of any help
Author:  Anto [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
That `FAM' valve in there is a rear bias or limiting valve, not a brake failure indicator. The rear subby had a tee not a limit valve.


I was always of the impression that some dual circuit systems had the brake failure indicator in the master cylinder, while some had it in the bias valve. :?:
Author:  norton [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
John Smidt wrote:
Mini king Australia have reconditioned bias valves $150.00 exchange, If this is of any help

is there a different rear bias valve for a disc brake front compared to a drum front
?
Author:  AEG163job [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
The best one is the one with the bore that is least rooted :lol: :lol: :lol:
Author:  John Smidt [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
The cooper s did have a different bias valve to mini deluxe etc,However i believe that the standard ones work fine. The bias valve i mentioned before is for the split system Sorry i did not mention that before
Author:  rampage101 [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 5:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just keep in mind that if you use the twin circuit MC that you will have to use a tin type clutch MC. (As I found out after rebuilding my nice clubby plastic res type)
Author:  Kennomini [ Fri Aug 22, 2008 6:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
feralsprint wrote:
you can have new lines made and leave the leaking unit out, it really only works as a way of having the brake failure light set up with a pressure shuttle type piston set up that triggers if one side looses pressure, not really good for anything except leaking and making more connections

If I leave the tandem bias out what's the need/point of having the bulky tandem MC? and I don't have a brake fail light :wink: .

drmini in aust wrote:
As said the whole tandem MC idea was to meet ADRs, I have seen how these Mini ones don't really work.. if you don't believe me go open a rear bleed nipple and see how much pedal you get then. :lol:

So the tandem system dose not work anyway :? you think the ADR's would have covered it working properly :lol: :roll: .

Both the tins I have are old clutch MC, will one work as a brake MC with no problems? (so long as I put a rear bias in the car).
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