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| tyre/rim sizes https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=45102 |
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| Author: | sumanovic [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | tyre/rim sizes |
i kno there is a topic somewhere on this but alas i cant manage to find it. ive asked a couple people i know, but i get different answers. i was wondering if rims/tyres that are 4.5' wide are the only ones that fit on a mini without arches...? or can i get 5' wide rims under? and do they stick out much? these are the only 4.5's i can find and they state that they are the only ones that fit without arches? does anyone know if there sold in australia? cheers, simon |
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| Author: | Spaceboy [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
standard minis had 3.5 inch rims, non spaced drums and no flares. (deluxe, mini clubman) minis equipped with 4.5 inch wide rims had spaced drums and flares (leyland S, Cooper S) you will have to use spaced drums on the rear if you want to use 4.5" or larger wheels because they will rub on the body/suspension. legally you will need flares if they stick out. you can use 4.5" wheels on the front with standard non spaced drums and they will fit under the standard guards without flares. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can use `LS offset' Contessas with S discs and spacer drums at rear, or spacer drums all round, they are legal without flares. If you have drum brakes with flat drums, you can use `Mini offset' Contessas. Both these wheels are 5x10, their only difference is the offset. When fitted as above their track is the same. If you want 4.5" steel wheels, LP918 `reverse S' wheels will fit on flat drums, that's what they are designed for. No flares needed. |
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| Author: | rehab1964 [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
silly noob wheel and brake question will the 4.5 cooper rims fit under the guards with disc brakes? |
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| Author: | Mick [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:47 am ] |
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No, not really. The 165 sidewalls will bulge out past the chrome edge stripping. Not by too much mind, particularly with fluted chrome edge trim on the guards. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:00 pm ] |
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Used to be if the tread was covered you were OK. Except in the Gestapo State, SA... 
Not sure if still the case but there are plenty of Mk1 S's about without flares. It depends how anal the authorities are, and how wide the tread is, but here in NSW people still get away with it... 
What I'm saying is with Yoko A008s and Bridgestone SF226 the tread won't stick out, but Falkens and some others will. |
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| Author: | WiLo [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ive got 165s on 5in rims on my deluxe without flares, passed blueslip without anything being said. the sidewall buldges out past the guards a little bit |
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| Author: | Austin850 [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: You can use `LS offset' Contessas with S discs and spacer drums at rear, or spacer drums all round, they are legal without flares.
If you have drum brakes with flat drums, you can use `Mini offset' Contessas. Both these wheels are 5x10, their only difference is the offset. When fitted as above their track is the same. If you want 4.5" steel wheels, LP918 `reverse S' wheels will fit on flat drums, that's what they are designed for. No flares needed. The only problem is that the LS offset Contessas will touch the brake calliper in one very small spot (near the bleed nipple). You either have to fit a small spacer or grind a tiny bit off the calliper. Not a big deal. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:41 pm ] |
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Be careful grinding there, and don't overtighten the bleed nipple. I have lost count of the S calipers I've seen broken in that spot. They are cast iron, it's brittle stuff when thin. They can usually be repaired with S/S filler rod and TIG welding, but it's far better not to break em...
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| Author: | Austin850 [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:12 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Be careful grinding there, and don't overtighten the bleed nipple. I have lost count of the S calipers I've seen broken in that spot. They are cast iron, it's brittle stuff when thin.
They can usually be repaired with S/S filler rod and TIG welding, but it's far better not to break em... Yeah, did that once. Bloody annoying. I honestly wasn't even tightening it real hard. Just snapped the whole knob off. 
It was a few years ago. I threw the whole thing away and managed to source another caliper. Didn't think about having it fixed. |
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| Author: | Mick [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Austin850 wrote: It was a few years ago. I threw the whole thing away and managed to source another caliper. Didn't think about having it fixed. There's a clown on UK ebay who has been trying to sell a cooper s calliper with a snapped mounting lug for about 9 months. he puts it up at a few dollars, it doesn't sell and he puts it up again... what would possess you to buy something like that I have no idea. |
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| Author: | 1071 [ Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had to use a spacer and a bit of grinding and the factory ROHs with Bridgestones (the narrowest 1265s I could find) stick out the tiniest bit at the front and are pretty much flush at the back.. A bit of negative camber can help... Cheers, Ian |
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